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2012 Buick Regal Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter 4 Cyl 2.0L ACDelco

P311-2F259FD    W0133-1953984  New

ACDelco Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Buick Regal L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
2009 Buick Allure Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter ACDelco

P311-3066121    W0133-2549248  New

ACDelco Fuel Injection Air Flow Meter
  • Genuine GM
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
2009 - Buick Allure

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1993 Buick Regal Limited

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From j1mmer5 on 1993 Buick Regal Limited

1993 Buick Regal Limited 3.1 130,000 miles

This vehicle ran fine till last week. It's my sisters car and shes down on her luck, no job, now car broke down. My brother and I are trying to repair it on a limited budget.
Last week she drove it about 3 miles to the grocery store it ran fine, shut it off come out of store 10-15 minutes later car started but it was running a little rough. Went to pull out of parking lot and car died, tried restarting it, no go, drained the battery down, freindly gentleman came over and gave her a jump. Car started but when she put it in gear it stalled, started it, and again when put in gear it stalled. She was able to get it going and kept feathering the throttle when she put it in gear and moved the car back in parking lot.
My brother went and checked it out and thought maybe the gas filter either froze up or dirty. He put a bottle of isopropyl in got car going put it in gear and it stalled. He also was able to feather the throttle put it in gear and drove it around parking lot but when excelrating it had a big miss at 1500-2000 rpms. I went and checked it out a few days later tried starting it and it would fire but not start. When it was firing there was a little bit of backfiring thru the air box. When I say a little I mean it was like a slight rumble like maybe it was flooded. So I thought it was either flooded or the timing.
My brother and I went and towed the car to his place and for the heck of it we put a new fuel filter in it, still no luck, so we looked at the plugs and wires they looked original so we replaced them and the air filter.
It seems to start and idle better and we can rev it in park sometimes it revs fine other times you got to feather the throttle to rev it up. Tried putting it in gear and it will stall. next we pulled the EGR off and cleaned it still no luck. We talked to a local mechanic and right away he thought EGR.
Then we talked to our sister and she has another regal with a bad tranny. So we pulled the EGR off it still no luck. We talked to another mechanic and he says maybe the TPS so back to the donor car tried that one, the car started idled fine took it for a ride around the block and about three quarters of the way it started missing again.
I checked for codes with check engine light but theres none in it. The second mechanic we talked to was from the local GM garage and was supposed to bring scan tool over last night but didn't show up.

So I figured I would come here to get some info.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks Jim

Response From brbettge Top Rated Answer

one thing you might look at is the fuel pressure regulator. it is located (assuming this is a car with fuel injectors) on the fuel rail on top of the engine. it will look kind of like the egr on top but will have a vacuum line to it. pull the vacuum line off and examine the inside of it(the end that you pulled off the regulator) if it is the least bit damp or wet it means the regulator is leaking and raw fuel is being pulled into the engine causing a flooding situation. they are fairly easy to change but would not use a used one as the diagphragms tend to get brittle and break when sitting for long periods. besides they are pretty cheap new. one other thing might be the mass air flow meter assuming there is one here. it is the kind of box looking thing in the tube between the air filter and throttle plates(engine). to test; start engine and let idle. as engine is idleing use a screwdriver handle or similar object to moderately tap on the mass air flow meter's housing. if the engine stumbles, shakes, shimmies or otherwise acts up when you tap then the mass air flow meter is bad. a used one is ok here. best of luck, and i'll keep thinking about it....might remember something else.

Response From j1mmer5

Little more info-

The mechanic with the GM scan tool was over last night.
The only thing he came up with is o2 sensor.
We got a new one replaced it with no luck. So we decided to try the MAP sensor off of the donor car but didn't help. Also replaced IAC with one from donor car- no luck.

To me it seems like its loading up on fuel.
I am pretty sure I found the fuel pressure regulator took the vaacum line off and it was dry.

It does seem to start and idle better but when you rev it to about 2500-3000 rpms then it cuts out and if you hold it there it will stall. You can feather it and go thru there.

Bout ready to try a little TNT!!!!

Response From brbettge

Ok, sounds like it's time to go back to basics. if it is "cutting out" at any speed or rpm you might have an electrical problem that is disguising itself as a fuel problem. my next step would be to get the coil pack and module assembly off the donor car and put it on. Understand, of course, that none of your donor car's parts are "known good". over the years i have learned that even new is not spelled the same as good. it may be that the tps from the donor car is breaking up at a different place than your car. think of the tps just like a volume control on a radio. it is simply a variable resister that is controlable by you. if the "windings" inside have a break then your volume will get scratchy at that point...same thing happens to it's signal to your car's computer. you also have a crank sensor on this engine that could be faulty at a certain rpm. it is located next to the front crank pulley and is fairly easy to change out. it may help if i explain the function of each of the sensors in plain english. the map is almost exclusively an idle control device. it changes variances in manifold pressures into electrical signals that help the computer control idle quality only. the O2 sensor function is to tell the computer how much fuel to feed the engine at most any speed but is usually only noticeable at idle when refering to quality of engine running (or so that you notice a difference in the way the engine sounds) the O2 sensor sends a varying voltage signal to the computer from .1volt to .9 volt; with .1 being lean fuel mix and .9 or above being rich. I explained the tps except that it sends a varying voltage signal ranging from about 1 to about 5 volts with one volt being idle and 5 volts being wot or wide open throttle. The tps normally takes over for the O2 and MAP in above idle situations. your crank sensor simply tells the coil packs when to fire-it takes the place of the distributor. it uses a magnet to detect exactly where #1 cylinder is at in it's stroke and sends a signal to the coil pack module when #1 reaches (basically) top dead center and the module fires the right coil at the right time depending on load and speed requirements of the engine. The IAC is simply that: idle air control- it controls idle speed only; nothing else.
Worst case and weirdest case scenerio would be the ECM breaking down at around the speed or RPM you are talking about and shutting off the fuel; probably injector pulse section.
you indicate the problem is only at higher rpm"s and idle seems to be fine. So, the thing to do is re-read this and concentrate on only those items which come into play at higher rpm's. tps,ignition module, coil packs, crank sensor, fuel pressure regulator(which could possibly be malfunctioning even without leaking-possibly due to a small hole in the vacuum hose which opens up under high vacuum situations only). This is a rather simple computer control system that has specific control functions; so once you understand which sensors do what and when (which i have basically explained here) then you can pretty much pinpoint any problem. all voltages can be measured useing a DVOM and backprobing connectors to read voltages. the only real thing you must be careful of is the high voltages in the spark plug wires/coils...they pack quite a wallop!
after re-reading this and both of your posts i am inclined to believe that you should change out the coil pack assembly - which is the thing your spark plug wires attach to on the side of the engine. that is the one thing that keeps jumping out at me. also you might locate the crank sensor and make sure it is not loose and moving even slightly on it's mount bolts...let me know, rick

Response From j1mmer5

Hey Guys

Got the car fixed- it was the fuel pump.

Thanx for all the help!!!!

89 Buick Skarlark idle issue

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From KrAzY on 89 Buick Skarlark idle issue

Car Specs:

Make/Model: 1989 Buick Skylark custom
Engine 3.3L V6
Mileage: 148k


Hello, I am having a problem with the idle on my 1989 Buick Skylark it started this winter when randomly apon starting it up cold it would rev very high rpm's and not drop back down and accasionally the check engine soon light would come on then after ya took off with it about a mile or so down the road the light would go off and when i came to a stop at a destination with the car the idle would be back to normal,And when restarting the car the idle would be normal as well and i just blew it off thinking something was froze/stuck from the extreme cold as it only did it randomly in the cold weather after it had sat a while.

Then it became more frequent to where i never knew if when i started it up if it was going to rev high or idle normal it was a hit and miss kinda thing.

Now it is getting warmer out and the problem has gotten permenant now everytime i start the car it idles way higher then it should in park and in Drive and it wants to jump to take off because the idle is too high, And the check engine light is on almost all the time now but randomly shuts off.

I am wondering if there is a idle control unit or something on this make of car that has gone bad finally causing the check engine light to come on and not drop my rpms down on my idle ?? I would take it in to a garage but for this many miles on the car and the year of the car i don't want to put in alot of $$ in labor for a car that probably blue book now is only worth $500 despite it's good condition.

Other then this problem the car has run and drove great other then a slight miss accasionally when idling at normal rpm's...Doesn't use/leak a drop of oil or anything else..So i am hoping it is just a idle sensor or idle control unit ect that can easily be replaced and fix my problem..But then again i never was one to get lucky on a easy fix : /

Any help would be greatly appreciated and i thx you for your time.

Response From dave284

Theres a couple of things that came to mind.....cold start valve/idle air control valve/ect...but the only positive way to be sure is to have the computer codes retrieved and read

Response From KrAzY

Theres a couple of things that came to mind.....cold start valve/idle air control valve/ect...but the only positive way to be sure is to have the computer codes retrieved and read

I was affaid of that And now it is not idling correctly even when it is warmed up and been drivin the idle isn't quite as high after it has been drivin and put in park but still well over what it should be.

Also new symptom has joined in the mix..When it is started cold and drivin..when you hit accelerator it tries to cut out and die then takes off..and i can release pedal and press it slightly again and everytime accelerator is pressed down it momentarily tries to cut out and die then accelerates.

I guess I am going to have to take it in and have it put on a computer like you stated i guess.

Response From dave284

With all those problems you describe....thats what (I) would do, let us know what the codes are when you get them,

Response From KrAzY

Well i finally got someone with a snap-On scanner to hook up to my buick and he said all the new code readers don't have adapters to fit on older cars?? So this tool was the best he could do.I dunno if these will help as all other codes i have seen peoplehere post are 3 digit codes not 2 so i dunno if this is right or not or if i need to have someone use a different reader ?? This was done with engine off key on with scanner reading codes saved in cpu.

The following codes were saved in the computer :

1) code #28 3rd gear circuit

2) code #27 2nd gear circuit

3) code # 26 Quad Driver Module

3) code #22 Throttle position too low

4) code #48 Misfire fuel ignition problem

Now the first 2 i am aware of why those codes are thrown because the transmission was stalling coming out of overdrive like a manual clutch when you just try and stop without putting in the clutch, And i was told to quick fix this problem without haveing trasnmission rebuilt was just to unplug the sensor from the transmission and it would shift fine only i wouldn't have the last 2 gears.I am told this happened alot in this type of car and there was no fix for it other then a new transmission to fix the electronic overdrive..I dunno if ther is anyother way to fix this or not : /

As for the other codes i have no idea what they mean especially my 3rd code #22 the car revs high rmps and cuts out when pressing gas pedal slightly so how can it have a throttle position too low ?? Enless the Throttle Position Sensor is bad and the computer is trying to make up for it by reving engine ??

Anyway i hope someone can make heads or tails of this...The codes don't really tell me anything other then there is some problems but it isn't specific in telling me what the problem or parts needing fixed are.

Response From dave284

The code 22 tps sensor low, means that the sensor itself is bad/ or is not adjusted properly, or the wiring to it is bad., and that can cause a misfire code to come up.

Response From KrAzY Top Rated Answer

The code 22 tps sensor low, means that the sensor itself is bad/ or is not adjusted properly, or the wiring to it is bad., and that can cause a misfire code to come up.
I hope it is that throttle sensor because it isn't too costly if it is the Ignition Air Flow Meter / Mass Air Sensor that is bad that goes anywhere from $209-$350 dollars to replace..I guess i should try the cheaper of the 2 sensors and will try to replace the throttle sensor first..I'll check back and let ya know how it goes ty dave.

Response From dave284

Most of my customers don't mind salvage parts, I've got a U-PULL salvage yard 20 miles from me and sensors like that are $15.00 and if it doesn't work they'll take it back and refund the money,maybe there might be one in your area.

Response From KrAzY

Most of my customers don't mind salvage parts, I've got a U-PULL salvage yard 20 miles from me and sensors like that are $15.00 and if it doesn't work they'll take it back and refund the money,maybe there might be one in your area.

well i i have tried 2 things now and the problem is now worse off then when i started I* was told the Throttle Position Sensor was only for driving speeds not idle problems...Is this correct ???

and that if my problem was high rev idle in park not moving it was due to the idle air control valve..So i tried the 2 things recommended.

1) I was told "sometimes" because of the carbon buildup it sticks and you can just clean the valve with some throttlebody/injector cleaner rather then replacing the thing, so i tried that first and used a old toothbrush and cleaned it as good as i could ( it was carboned up quite a bit ) and let it dry for a few days..Then put it back in and hooked up the wiring to it then when i tried to start the car it just cranked over and sometimes sputtered but would NOT start...Now if i pressed down the accelerator it would start and run but as soon as i let off the accelerator the car instantly died so cleaning the part and replacing it seemed to have made the problem worse...So i assumed the valve was probably stuck or bad and cleanign it only made it stick worse...So i went on to step 2.

2) I went to a scrap yard and found a few of the same idle air valves and decided my best bet was the one on the car with the least miles on it alot of them had over 200k miles but the one decided to buy and try the vehicle only had 102k miles on it.So i put it in and rehooked up the wire plug and proceeded to start the vehicle again and same problem it just sputtered and would not start/idle and if i press down the accelerator again like before it will start and run at high rpms but as soon as i let off the accelerator it will instantly die again.

So safe to say i am kind of frustrated right now because before i even messed with it the car run/start fine it just had a tendency to idle high and throw a check engine soon light but was still drivable..Now i have made the problem worse somehow by trying to replace this idle valve the car won't even run or idle at all now.Only way to even start it pressing down the accelerator and keeping it pressed to keep the car even running.

I dunno if the used part was also bad or what but the problem now is worse then before i messed with the idle valve.

And a new one is about $72 bucks and i dunno if i want to pay that and still not know if it will fix the problem or not..And everyone i have asked says there is NO way to test them to see if it's working properly.

Also is there a relearn proceedure that needs to be done after replacing a idle control valve ??

Response From dave284 here are some ways to test the IAC,I'm sorry youre having trouble, but have patience,we all go thru the same thing on one or another on these vehicles.

Response From KrAzY

Ty dave!!, I got it up and running again now i guess the ecm/pcm just had to relearn/reset the IAC i started it up and it would die..So i followed the prodecure and run it at aprox 2k rpm ( just guessed as i don't have a tacometer ) for 7 minutes then let off the accelerator and the car dropped down to a idle..Then when i tried to drive would die after accelerating down the road for a bit then stopping..In which case i think it ALSO had to relearn the idle speed when in gear because i drove the car aprox 5-7 miles accasionally stopping and starting and now it idles nice and smooth in park and or in drive/reverse as well..It does however idle a bit lower then it did before but i'm not going to take out the IAC again and adjust the pintle to raise the idle i'm just happy the car runs correctly now again and it is driveable :) Also the check engine soon light has shut off now.

Again thx for all the help it is greatly appreciated..I'm just glad there is places like this with people willing to help others that can't really offord taking there vehicles to a repair shop.

Response From KrAzY

I spoke too soon, after driving it around town and stuff for a while today running erands the check engine soon light has come back on every now and then and shuts back off again *sigh* Do i need to disconnect the battery and dump the old codes from the ECM to reset the check engine soon light ?? Or is the CES light coming back on and off because there is still a problem ??

Response From dave284

I know its aggravating, cause I still run into these problems myself. The ecm plays a big part of the engine's performance,and I can say these computers will throw you advice would have the codes read again, cause there is chance another problem could have occurred....and if the same codes came back I would be thinking of replacing the ecm.....salvage part.

Response From KrAzY

Ok this is getting really spendy and agrivating I have replaced the IAC valve/sensor and the Throttle position sensor and none of the codes have changed still getting code 22,26,27,28,48 after dumping ecm memory and rechecking codes after running engine.

But 22 should have been fixed when i replaced the IAC and TPS but engine still idles high alot of the time then other times it drops to idle it should be at,And when i'm driving the car and accelerating at a constant speed above 35mph or so the check engine light goes off..Then when i let the gas off and slow down to come to a stop it comes back on.
48 is usually the map/maf sensor bad BUT sometimes a bad throttle control sensor will throw this code also along with the 22 won't it ??

My question now is after i allready replaced the IAC and the Throttle position sensor why am i still getting code 22 ?? And if the 48 is indeed a bad mass air flow sensor would that also throw the 22 ??

Or god forbid is is possible that the brand new throttle position sensor i put in is no good in the first place and still throwin 22 ?? I'm running out of ideas and patience on what else to do to fix this problem.

Only other thing that comes to mind is that perhaps none of the codes changed after replaced the sensors is because the ecm itself is bad ???