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Beck Arnley
2010 Smart Fortwo Air Filter Beck Arnley

P311-290979D    042-1750  New

Qty:
Beck Arnley Air Filter
  • AIR FILTER
  • APPLICATION SPECIFIC FOR THIS VEHICLE
  • Product Attributes:
    • ORDER MULTIPLE: 1
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Smart Fortwo
Beck Arnley
2006 Smart Fortwo Air Filter 3 Cyl 0.8L Beck Arnley

P311-58A2891    042-1724  New

Qty:
14.01
Beck Arnley Air Filter
  • AIR FILTER
  • ; Paper Type
  • APPLICATION SPECIFIC FOR THIS VEHICLE
  • Product Attributes:
    • ORDER MULTIPLE: 1
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Fuel Type Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Smart Fortwo Canada DIESEL L 3 Cyl 0.8L - 799
Corteco
2008 Smart Fortwo Air Filter 3 Cyl 1.0L Corteco - CORTECO

P311-0FB0183    80005028  New

F026400144 , 0010940301 , A0010940301 , 3046600 , E1002L , A 001 094 03 01 , ELP9316

Qty:
17.58
Corteco Air Filter
  • ; Filter type: Non-woven Length : 270mm Width : 110mm Height : 37mm
  • CORTECO
  • Product Attributes:
    • Material: Nonwovens
Brand: Corteco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Body Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Smart Fortwo - Coupe RWD L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 999
Hengst
2008 Smart Fortwo Air Filter 3 Cyl 1.0L Hengst

P311-0D66D07    E1002L  New

001 094 03 01 , WA9632 , A 001 094 03 01 , C 2716 , LX 2034 , 49301

Qty:
10.27
Hengst Air Filter
  • Air Filter
Brand: Hengst
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Manuf. Body Code Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Smart Fortwo 451.331 L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
Hengst
2017 Smart Fortwo Air Filter 3 Cyl 0.9L Hengst

P311-435B072    E1320L  New

C 22 033 , 165469377R , WA9808 , 2810940000 , A2810900901 , 165462683R , 2810900901 , A2810940000

Qty:
15.06
Hengst Air Filter
  • Air Filter
Brand: Hengst
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Manuf. Body Code Block Engine CID CC
2017 - Smart Fortwo 453.453 L 3 Cyl 0.9L 55 898
Premium Guard
2010 Smart Fortwo Air Filter 3 Cyl 1.0L Premium Guard - Standard Air Filter

P311-56A1BF0    PA6062  New

SA10604 , E1002L , 9301 , AF1408 , 49301 , 33-2417 , PA6062 , 83301 , A 001 094 03 01 , CA10604 , P9301 , CAP10604 , XA6062 , AF3914 , A16062 , C2716 , 5000-291796

Qty:
10.91
Premium Guard Air Filter
  • Standard Air Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
Premium Guard
2018 Smart Fortwo Air Filter 3 Cyl 0.9L Premium Guard - Standard Air Filter

P311-0F46098    PA99224  New

A 281 094 00 00 , PA99224 , SA90202 , 200517 , 33-3043

Qty:
8.44
Premium Guard Air Filter
  • Standard Air Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Smart Fortwo L 3 Cyl 0.9L 55 898
Purflux
2012 Smart Fortwo Air Filter Purflux

P311-3FD81DA    A1509  New

Qty:
8.59
Brand: Purflux
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Smart Fortwo
Wix
2009 Smart Fortwo Air Filter 3 Cyl 1.0L Wix

P311-5CA07DD    49301  New

ADU172204 , 60913 , A2441 , CAF100941P , A0010940301 , 5000291796 , PAF6062 , LVFA 1477 , WA9632 , AF1408 , U 941/606 , 012 321 0012 , AP 195/2 , 50 014 453 , 49301 , EAF716 , PA6062 , F 026 400 442 , 80005028 , C 2716 , V30-1337 , 9301 , 33-2417 , ELP9316 , AF136 , 30.466.00 , CA10604 , CAP10604 , AF3914 , PA10286 , S 3466 A , A-26310 , 83301 , E1002L , 4453-AP , FA-M03S , XC11367 , A1509 , A16062 , AF10604 , 43795003 , F 026 400 144 , ALA-8868 , MA3173 , S0144 , 001 094 03 01 , A3914 , 18408 , LX 2034 , 001.094.03.01 , 0421750 , F106A64 , XA6062 , 20-0M-M03 , PC 3284 E

Qty:
16.74
Wix Air Filter
  • WIX Air Filter Panel
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: C
    • Duty Type: Ld
    • Ends: Plastic
    • Height: 1.417
    • Inner Diameter Top: Closed
    • Length: 10.551
    • Media Material: Synthetic
    • Style: Air Filter Panel
    • Width: 4.370
  • WIX Premium Panel Air Filters provide excellent engine protection for normal and severe driving conditions such as stop and go traffic, dirt roads, construction sites, short trips, and interstate travel. WIX filters are recommended for OEM air filter change intervals. These filters contain 30% more media than OES filters and use a phenolic resin treated enhanced cellulose media which provides excellent durability against moisture ingestion. When applicable, the high-tear strength polyurethane seal survives extreme hot and cold temperature conditions. Air filter Laboratory Tests per ISO 5011 at least 99.5% efficiency (Based on Wix 42389)
Brand: Wix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Smart Fortwo Canada L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
Wix
2014 Smart Fortwo Air Filter 3 Cyl 1.0L Wix

P311-5CA07DD    49301  New

ADU172204 , 60913 , A2441 , CAF100941P , A0010940301 , 5000291796 , PAF6062 , LVFA 1477 , WA9632 , AF1408 , U 941/606 , 012 321 0012 , AP 195/2 , 50 014 453 , 49301 , EAF716 , PA6062 , F 026 400 442 , 80005028 , C 2716 , V30-1337 , 9301 , 33-2417 , ELP9316 , AF136 , 30.466.00 , CA10604 , CAP10604 , AF3914 , PA10286 , S 3466 A , A-26310 , 83301 , E1002L , 4453-AP , FA-M03S , XC11367 , A1509 , A16062 , AF10604 , 43795003 , F 026 400 144 , ALA-8868 , MA3173 , S0144 , 001 094 03 01 , A3914 , 18408 , LX 2034 , 001.094.03.01 , 0421750 , F106A64 , XA6062 , 20-0M-M03 , PC 3284 E

Qty:
16.74
Wix Air Filter
  • WIX Air Filter Panel
  • Original Equipment Part Number 001 094 03 01
  • Product Attributes:
    • Class: C
    • Duty Type: Ld
    • Ends: Plastic
    • Height: 1.417
    • Inner Diameter Top: Closed
    • Length: 10.551
    • Media Material: Synthetic
    • Style: Air Filter Panel
    • Width: 4.370
  • WIX Premium Panel Air Filters provide excellent engine protection for normal and severe driving conditions such as stop and go traffic, dirt roads, construction sites, short trips, and interstate travel. WIX filters are recommended for OEM air filter change intervals. These filters contain 30% more media than OES filters and use a phenolic resin treated enhanced cellulose media which provides excellent durability against moisture ingestion. When applicable, the high-tear strength polyurethane seal survives extreme hot and cold temperature conditions. Air filter Laboratory Tests per ISO 5011 at least 99.5% efficiency (Based on Wix 42389)
Brand: Wix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Region Block Engine CID CC
2014 - Smart Fortwo Canada L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 1000
Mann-Filter
2005 Smart Fortwo Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-3265E40    W0133-1814167  New

Qty:
24.41
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mann-Filter
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Smart Fortwo
Hengst
2009 Smart Fortwo Air Filter Hengst

P311-4EC863C    W0133-3766191  New

Qty:
14.34
Hengst Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Hengst
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Smart Fortwo
Hengst
2017 Smart Fortwo Air Filter Hengst

P311-0CD9C60    W0133-2145182  New

Qty:
22.96
Hengst Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Hengst
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type
2017 - Smart Fortwo GAS

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2004 5.3 l chev silverado many codes set

Showing 3 out of 10 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From tonygl on 2004 5.3 l chev silverado many codes set

p0300,p0151,p0174,p1153 Rough idle, bad gas mileage, hesitation on first acceleration. Changed plugs and air filter, cleaned MAF sensor. This did not work, so I disconnected the O2 sensor b2 sensor 1. Now it runs fine, could this mean the sensor is bad or the catalytic converter or something else? Should I change O2 sensor then go from there?

Response From Hammer Time

Most of those codes are pointing to a lean condition on the passenger side. It could be a bad sensor but it's more likely that it is really running lean on that side. Check it real good for any vacuum leaks.

Response From tonygl

Checked for leaks in the vacuum system, and no visible signs. The fact I disconnected the O2 and it ran fine, would that not indicate an O2 is bad?

Response From Hammer Time

Air leaks are not something that is visible. It has to be smoke tested or artificially enriched.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tony: I've had some luck using carb cleaner at suspect leak areas and if idle (do at idle) changes there's something wrong there. OE gaskets stink IMO. Not like the old days. If you try that - cooler engine helps and don't point at hot items,

T

PS: Newest car 1989 - the day/year the music died! (Don McKinley?)

Response From Double J

Don McLean

American Pie

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Smart Azz but that's what we pay you for!


Tom

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Didn't mean to be a smart azz...saw your question mark after the name ,thats all.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Memory is actually pretty good now and then if that makes sense? Thank you FIVE star moderator here and that's what you get paid for as said- now laugh!

Tommy

Response From tonygl

Thanks, I will look for leaks.

PT Cruiser 2001 Base Squeeling

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From redfield88 on PT Cruiser 2001 Base Squeeling

2001
CHRYSLER
PT CRUISER
106,000 miles

So, winter just turned to summer and I noticed a squealing sound that wasn't there previously.

When I get the RPM's to about 2,000 I hear a high pitch squeal. The pitch is so high that most people can't even hear it. People look at me like I am crazy and just hearing things. Once I get up to 3,000 RPM the noise disappears.

During the colder mornings / days the squeal is not there at all. It's only on warmer days. I don't hear the squeal at all in Park or Reverse. I can only hear the squeal in drive.

I'm going to assume it's one of the belts but I am no where close to being a smart guy with cars. I'm just looking for some general advice on how I can diagnose this issue.

I had the main serpentine belt replaces and the pully tightened last year around this time. It's a very similar issue, however, It doesn't make the noise all the time like it did last year.

Response From Discretesignals

Noises are near impossible to diagnose over the internet. Have you had your mechanic take a look at it?

Response From redfield88

No. Not yet. Waiting for the warm to come along a little better so if I am without a car for a bit I can walk to work comfortably.

I need to get a small break line leak fixed soon so I'll just have them check out the squealing as during the same visit.

Response From nickwarner

No. Not yet. Waiting for the warm to come along a little better so if I am without a car for a bit I can walk to work comfortably.

I need to get a small break line leak fixed soon so I'll just have them check out the squealing as during the same visit.


You have a leaking brake line and you're driving it around? Do not wait for different weather. Get a coat and walk if you have to. It amazes me that you are worried about a sound so small other people that ride with you cannot hear it, yet disregard a critical safety issue whereby by driving this car you are placing in danger everyone around you.

Screw the noise, fix that brake line right now or park it.

Response From redfield88

No. Not yet. Waiting for the warm to come along a little better so if I am without a car for a bit I can walk to work comfortably.

I need to get a small break line leak fixed soon so I'll just have them check out the squealing as during the same visit.


You have a leaking brake line and you're driving it around? Do not wait for different weather. Get a coat and walk if you have to. It amazes me that you are worried about a sound so small other people that ride with you cannot hear it, yet disregard a critical safety issue whereby by driving this car you are placing in danger everyone around you.

Screw the noise, fix that brake line right now or park it.

The leak is in the reservoir and not the lines itself. So break fluid leaks from the reservoir but stays in the lines.

You said they tightened the belt? Could be wrong but this shows only one engine available, one belt and it's self tensioned so what really happened?
/


That "tensioner" self adjusts to the limits of a belt. You could have a noise or problem with that and just do a belt while there but if that info in correct you do NOT adjust this belt.


Mounts? All of them, one or what? Were they separated or why were they declared bad?


Belts in general: Some just stink and are noisy and some are not. Most if belt is making the noise will shut up for a short while if you have the noise expected, shut off engine, just mist the belt ribs with even plain water and start it. If gone or much worse that points to a belt that just isn't good enough. Not conclusive of much if no change.


If you do this don't soak everything just pin point ribbed side of the belt. Hot parts and electrical thing do not and should not be exposed to water so I said ''mist spray'' not soaked with a hose type thing,


T

They said they adjusted the tension, as I said before I am far from car smart so I had no idea about the auto tension. But after some more investigating it's more of a whistle than a squeal. I had a few people listen to the sound It sounds like a squeal to me but everyone else thinks it's a whistle. And now that i've been messing with it more it makes the noise in park, neutral and reverse it's just barely audible. You mainly hear it in drive.

They replaces the serpentine belt and replaced the tensioner according to my receipts.

As for mounts it was 1 upper and 1 lower mount that was replaced according to the receipt.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Belt tension - probably just a mix up of understanding so forget that. I was thinking you were catching bull just to quiet you down.


Back up on this and pay attention NOW on the brake line. They don't even have to give you a warning and usually don't but just boom and about ZERO brakes all when it's the worst possible time. Rusted out line is so common don't think it's just one piece but let a shop decide on overall lines all over it (under it) and do as much as needed. Line is cheap but some are a pest to route back in place perfectly and bleeding required may bust off bleeder or a domino effect of items needed to get those right and there's no choice it that or park it as Nick said,


T

Response From redfield88

Belt tension - probably just a mix up of understanding so forget that. I was thinking you were catching bull just to quiet you down.


Back up on this and pay attention NOW on the brake line. They don't even have to give you a warning and usually don't but just boom and about ZERO brakes all when it's the worst possible time. Rusted out line is so common don't think it's just one piece but let a shop decide on overall lines all over it (under it) and do as much as needed. Line is cheap but some are a pest to route back in place perfectly and bleeding required may bust off bleeder or a domino effect of items needed to get those right and there's no choice it that or park it as Nick said,


T

The leak is not in my lines, but in the reservoir itself.
I've been told they have some sort of rubber seal in them that "can" dry out and crack. I'm assuming that's where the leak is. My lines do not loose any pressure. I've let the reservoir run completely out of fluid and drove with it on empty just to see if the lines are loosing fluid. I own a lot of land so I used it to "test" my theory.

Response From Hammer Time

You can try to justify driving it that way all you want but fluid loss is fluid loss and it can suddenly give out altogether with no warning. You don't ignore brake problems. You are endangering everyone else on the road with you.

Response From redfield88 Top Rated Answer

Issue ended up being a loose hose going to the air filter.

Got breaks fluid leak fixed, was some sort of seal in the main cylinder.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a wild thought: You said doesn't do this in park or reverse? So if only drive perhaps a motor mount allows too much motion with forces that way and something rubs by hair and temperatures matter somehow as well.


Sometimes you can run engine with hood open and see the engine while running, brakes applied well just shift and can see it move. May take a little throttle to show better and of course all caution doing that, that nothing is in the way of the vehicle or overdo that test alone. Get helper that is qualified if that is suspect to peg down or watch a mount separate that way or other ways,


T

Response From redfield88

I had all the motor mounts replaced last year at the same time they replaced the serpentine belt and tightened the tension.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Was it solved then and perhaps problem returned?


T

Response From redfield88

I suppose it's possible. I purchased the car used last year. I took it to get it checked out to find that all the motor mounts needed replaced. I took it home and shortly after I noticed a similar squeal that I am having now. I took it back and they replaced the belt and tightened the tension. Fixed the problem all summer through winter.

The squeal is somehow different this time though. Before it didn't matter the RPMs I was going. Now it's only noticeable between 2000 and 3000 rpm.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You said they tightened the belt? Could be wrong but this shows only one engine available, one belt and it's self tensioned so what really happened?
/


That "tensioner" self adjusts to the limits of a belt. You could have a noise or problem with that and just do a belt while there but if that info in correct you do NOT adjust this belt.


Mounts? All of them, one or what? Were they separated or why were they declared bad?


Belts in general: Some just stink and are noisy and some are not. Most if belt is making the noise will shut up for a short while if you have the noise expected, shut off engine, just mist the belt ribs with even plain water and start it. If gone or much worse that points to a belt that just isn't good enough. Not conclusive of much if no change.


If you do this don't soak everything just pin point ribbed side of the belt. Hot parts and electrical thing do not and should not be exposed to water so I said ''mist spray'' not soaked with a hose type thing,


T

95 Olds Cutlass Supreme - Slow Start when it gets cold

Showing 2 out of 23 Posts | Show 21 Hidden Posts
Question From webbwbb on 95 Olds Cutlass Supreme - Slow Start when it gets cold

Hi, I have a 95 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme. Last year, as winter approached, I had an issue where it would be very difficult to start my car. Since then, I have replaced the coil packs, spark plugs, and wire set. This year it is doing it again and I would really like to come up with a solution to it rather than ignoring it this time. Here is what I've found to be the best way to start it:
Let it crank for a few seconds, wait about fifteen seconds, start cranking while pumping the gas.
It has no issues turning over. I have also checked the air filter and it seems clean. Based on my very limited mechanical knowledge, I'm thinking that it is likely a fuel system issue but would like to get an opinion from someone who actually knows what they are talking about :)


EDIT: I live in Florida so we are not talking about freezing weather. It's been getting down to the 50 and 60s lately. I also have been using only Mobil, Chevron, or Shell lately so I don't think that it could be cheap gas causing issues.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Try to get code readings and a fuel pressure test. Those temps are cold to an engine and fuel.


Should show up but might not on a 1995 but there's a coolant temp sensor to tell the "computer" that the engine is cold and deliver more fuel for cold starts. I think black wire with a stripe and yellow wire near thermostat if you find it at least make sure it's plugged in and connection good.


BTW - pumping gas pedal does nothing but confuse a fuel injected car - you are NOT pumping fuel touching the pedal,


T

Response From webbwbb

The sensor is connected. In regards to pumping the gas, if I try to start it without doing that, I may sit there cranking it for 10 minutes and not get a result. Sometimes I hear it start to try and sputter and hitting the gas is the only way to get it to actually start.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Careful not to wreck starter motor cranking this too much or too long at a time till fixed. Try this instead as a test instead. Hold key in run position and listen for the fuel pump to prime up and quit before turning key to "start" position. If that makes it start up faster or perfectly that's on the way to a better clue.


Not sure how much testing you are able to do and need to vs parts tossing. May have you on the wrong track but you said this is a cold weather (colder weather) starting problem suggests there isn't a problem when warmer right? Going on two seasons with this same issue.


I'm focused on this NOT sensing the engine is cold for any reason. It's been used for ages that CTS or also called a engine temp sensor. It's not one for a temp gauge but rather to determine fuel delivery. Cheap enough part but you can test it too with a plain OHM meter. See chart what it should read at what temp but IMO if it changes at all between a cold and warmed up engine it's probably right and problem is something else or wiring..........



Not a problem entirely but it's a 20 year old vehicle so open to a wider assortment of possible reasons some of which will be shown with a code reading. I'll wait on how to do that till you can verify that this thing works properly by itself with an OHM test.


You also really need to find out fuel pressure with KOEO (key on engine off) and if it holds. IMO a problem there more likely and also tons more costly potentially but shouldn't have waited two seasons IMO either to fail totally and not run at all.


Memory compromised but this CTS is easy and really don't even have to lower coolant level much or at all as it should be placed high in the cooling system so doesn't spill much if you do need to replace it. I wouldn't just toss it until known bad as it should come with a new pigtail connector to solder in as well.


Quick look said two engines possible for this so please state which, 3.1 or 3.4 was shown.


Also plain look around for lousy vacuum hoses or anything left disconnected. Even pre OBDII that should leave you with a check engine light most of the time.


Still thinking and need to know if this is just a one time cold start then running fine or starting fine if still warmed up at all the rest of a day?


T

Response From webbwbb Top Rated Answer

Sorry, it's the 3.1 model. It starts easily once warm.
I can't be certain that I was making proper contact with the amount of light that I had, but I read values in the 1.6k range while it is 49F outside so it seems like you were likely right that the sensor had some issues. I did try it with the sensor disconnected (approximately infinite resistance) and it still had the same issue. I don't know if the computer is smart enough to know if that is too high though.

Response From Hammer Time

Understand this........... pumping the throttle on a fuel injected car does nothing but exercise your foot.

Unplugging the coolant sensor will tell the computer that it is -40 deg F so don't do that.

You need to check the fuel pressure as you were advised.

Response From webbwbb

I did reconnect the temperature sensor, but thought that would be a good test. If it thought it was very cold, it would pump more fuel and should theoretically start easier. I will likely have to wait until next weekend to look into things more. Between work and school, I have no free daylight until Friday. I watched some videos on how to test fuel pressure. Do you know if Autozone will rent out a fuel pressure tester?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Check locally if a fuel pressure tester is rentable. I take it that it made no difference with CTS unplugged or plugged in? If it didn't change anything that alone suggests it's not communicating,


T

Response From webbwbb

Some updates:
I plan to test the fuel pressure on Sunday. I had another issue today where, when I was stopped, it started revving on it's own, then almost stalled. It usually idles at around 1k RPM but revved up to ~2.5k and then plummeted to ~400 and started to sputter. This was about a minute after a warm start. After I drove for a bit, it cleared up and had no more issues.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Still could be related to improper fuel pressure to hold within range and car is trying not to stall by itself.


Also check charging system is working properly now with this and all connections. I think this model still had a funky battery set up with it well hidden so you can't see connections or clean them up so easily on this and some like it.


Twas a bit older but the same car I think this model really had a lot of things to remember if a battery was disconnected so use a battery memory saver or get help. This car will likely not run well right away if battery is disconnected for any reason or goes dead loses important adaptive memory,


T

Response From webbwbb

I got 0 PSI. With the pump primed, I pressed in the shrader valve and nothing leaked out. I do hear the pump engage.

Response From Hammer Time

So, I guess you are getting closer to finding your problem. Are you sure there is fuel in the tank?

Response From webbwbb

Unless someone stole it. I just filled up.

Response From Hammer Time

So, I guess you need to find out how you lost your fuel pressure. Your first step is still to get a fuel pressure gauge before going any further. Pich off the return to see if that changes anything. If not, you're going to have to pull the tank and fuel pump. There is a short rubber hose at the pump that if it leaks will dump the pressure back into the tank.

Response From Discretesignals

Just curious, but if this a fuel drain back problem, have you cycled the key off to on 3 or 4 times (primed) before cranking the engine to see if it starts up faster?

You should also do as HT suggested.

Response From webbwbb

I tried cycling the key like you said and it did not help it to start easier. How would I determine which is the return line? I am very new at this and don't know if it would connect more towards the top of the engine or a bit lower. Other update: When I was just trying to figure that out, I noticed that the lines were pretty compressible (this is hours since I last turned it on). It was easy to squeeze them and when I did so, I could hear the fuel slosh in the rails. I decided to see if I could feel a difference after priming it. Both lines were quite stiff after that. I decided to try the gauge again but it still read 0 PSI.

Response From webbwbb

Update: I talked to a mechanically inclined neighbor who recommended that we remove the fuel rails and clean them out with brake parts cleaner. I was going to post here for an opinion on that idea after this semester ended (only one more week!) This past week has been pretty cold, it has dipped into the lower 40s some, and it has had no trouble. It starts within a half second of me turning the key. Any ideas on why it would suddenly have such a massive change?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Oh boy - if you have NO problem now you probably aren't going to find much that did this. It's really over and just want to say to clean out fuel parts I wouldn't use brake cleaner but rather carb/throttle body cleaners if wanted to do that. Brake cleaner sprays and such are not flammable or far less flammable than fuel cleaning products.


BTW - 40F isn't cold to a car it is to YOU but they do notice in some ways. About now I look forward to 40F days or better and not long wont see that for a few months,


T

Response From Hammer Time


Brake cleaner sprays and such are not flammable or far less flammable than fuel cleaning products.

I can drive a car into the shop on Brakekleen alone and do it all the time. It is very flammable.


I've been known to use a can as a flamethrower occasionally too.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Stuff may vary? Tested some a while ago and one at least wouldn't burn at all. I think I have some by the brand name Brakleen and see what it does.


If the product is the same as carb cleaners guess I don't need both as either behave like lacquer thinner to me,


T

Response From Hammer Time

I think the carb cleaner is a bit more oily.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just tested now. Brand, "BRAKLEEN" does NOT burn no matter how hard I tried. AutoZone's brand was a flame thrower!


Everything was a while ago but recall a product that just a few drop would render a flammable like pure gasoline inert or not flammable such that you could braze over a leaky gas tank - still dry off vehicle metal tank it worked! Must dry all vapor of anything left in a tank to be able to burn anything in it. Not even sure they sell that stuff anymore but witnessed it done to exactly a gas tank to do as said, braze over a crack that leaked,


T


(edit) > Totally read containers. They are different by brand. Brakleen uses CO2 as the propellent other doesn't. I only bring this us as I find using brand name product that is MARKED NON FLAMMABLE is more effective at finding vacuum leaks and near zero risk of fire. Has a reason and use. If used to clean fuel parts to be re-used it must be totally dried out....

Response From Discretesignals

Check engine light on? What is the fuel pressure reading when it doesn't want to start?

99 Blazer Heater Core Replacement

Showing 2 out of 18 Posts | Show 16 Hidden Posts
Question From sonordrumr on 99 Blazer Heater Core Replacement

Tom, first of all, thanks for your great advice, I've read alot of threads and have found them to be very informative and useful. My question is about replacing the heater core on a 99 Blazer. Do I have to take he dash apart or can I just get to it from the firewall? I've done everything I can think of except checking the actuator as my heat problem. Flushed, replaced all hoses except top radiator hose, thermostat, etc. the works! Also, how can I access the actuator "door" to see if it is stuck somehow? Also, do I have to use "Dex-cool" antifreeze? I bought some Prestone that claims it can be used in any vehicle, even Chevy/GM. I appreciate any advice you can give me on this headache I'm about to delve into. You're the man!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You do not have to use Dex-Cool and I actually won't use it again in anything. If you read the container it's just EG = ethylene/glycol but just came with a lie that it would outlast the others. Quality of additives is the whole enchilada. The Prestone colorless is at least not going to mess up the different colors which are just dyes anyway.

1999 Blazer Heater Core: Ouch! That is the full size pup like Suburbans - right? If so that's a huge job - whole dash off and hit back if you want to do that and I'll try to scope out some advice from folks who have done several for A/C work and replaced the heater core as it was there in the process so most would toss it.

Hit back with what you want to do with this. I forgot the original complaint with this??

T

Response From sonordrumr

Thank you for the reply. Yeah, I'm going to have to replace the heater core. If I had the money, I would pay someone else to do it but....I was wondering where the actuator door is to check if it is stuck somehow. Thanks again!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

There are more than just one door to divert air flow. What was the original problem or existing problem? Heater core itself should be fine unless it's leaking coolant or plugged solid and can't be flushed out,

T

Response From sonordrumr

I'm not getting any heat in the cabin. I've replaced the heater hoses, thermostat, lower radiator hose, and drive belt. Still no heat! I assumed it was the heater core, which I've flushed out. what are the locations of the air diverter's?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

All these doors either are moved by actuators electrically or by a vacuum diaphragm at the direction of the control panel. As you know it selects hot or cold, which ducts to vent thru and fresh or recirculated air. The amount of heat will be blended as to your liking. I haven't heard of many problems with the doors themselves.

You heater core itself if not leaking and could let water flush thru is not the problem and that's good news for now.

I don't have a blow-up diagram of this whole distribution box or the wiring to and from controls to help us with this. Does this behave as far as A/C and directing the air flow as requested, vents, high and low, defrost vents and floor etc? Even on just asking for "vent" air it probably would let heat thru if you selected vent and the warmest setting. Like many people you probably shut the temp to full cold for the whole off A/C season so the blend door for the heater core has been shut for a while and may just be stuck there. They are just funky choke plates kind of. It's possible to get at this one or others thru the glove box or getting creative with what can get out of the way.

Does it feel like the control knob for temp really changes anything or do you hear anything? Problem could be there?? I think that same knob would give you less cool for A/C request and you would notice that and rule that out if that works that way. Too cold where I am right now to test out anything with A/C as far as how cool it can get.

Test out what you can and let's see if we can pin this down. Again - is this the full size Blazer or the S-10 size? The name got used for both and I don't know which year means which??

It would be nice to get this fixed while in place as I'm almost sure you have to evacuate/disconnect the A/C system to remove the distribution box and then you'd have to know how to deal with that,

T

Response From sonordrumr

It is the S-10 model, the smaller of the 2. The vents all seem to work with the change of the knob from top to bottom. I was on a trip about 60 miles away and had heat all the way there and then on the way home about 4 hours later it was blowing cold air. I had been having electrical problems before and changed the alternator which straightened out the electrical problems but still no heat. Could the low volts during that period cause a relay or electrical powered switch to not work properly now? I will check my manual after work to see of any vacuum or electrical switches to or from the heater. I've checked all fuses and relays and they seem fine visually. The heater core is not leaking at all and when I flushed it a small amount of coolant came out and then clean water. I flushed it from both ways to be sure. Thanks for all your help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Check out this link below! This uses a heater control valve and that's the likely problem and could be a piece of cake!!!! I just searched that out for parts to see if I could find a diagram and stumbled on that! This means the temp is controlled by the flow of water which is adjust by this item. Part might be fine and just getting wrong info. This probably has nothing to do with tearing up the distribution box at all! I'm going to go back there and see if that shows more on that thing. In the mean time check the wiring going to it and connections. The mechanical force should be vacuum not cable and I'll be the default position when no vacuum is available is to shut it off, thus no heat!

http://www.autozone.com/.../repairInfoPages.htm

T

Response From sonordrumr

Right on, Tom! Thanks a million! I'll check it out.

Response From sonordrumr

Just to check back and tell you guys my solution: I picked the brain of our local mechanic and he explained I didn't have the aforementioned heater control valve and that it was only equipped in higher end GM vehicles. After several troubleshooting tries, I filled the radiator and overflow reservoir and finally got some heat albeit lukewarm and intermittent. I decided the water pump was at fault and noticed after using a mirror I was getting a small amount of leakage from the weep hole at the bottom of the pump. I ordered a new pump today and will let you know how things go after install. Thanks!

Response From sonordrumr

Tom, its me again!Hope you have a great new year. I'm still having problems getting full heat in my 99 Blazer. I've checked everything I can imagine and replaced virtually all heating elements except the heater core which flushed out just fine. I removed the coolant reservoir the other day and cleaned it out really well. I found a blockage in the reservoir and thought for sure I found the problem but still only lukewarm heat and sometimes cold. One thing I have noticed is that the ac compressor cycles on sometimes when no call for ac is present. Why? I've also noticed a change in air flow when switching from defrost, front vents, and floor. The floor dramatically drops air flow. Thanks for any help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hi,

This is getting to be enough to read and follow! Ok: A/C can kick compressor on on defrost or perhaps a mix setting - it does that just to circulate oils to preserve the compressor in off season - doesn't make cold and must shut down when cold or it would kill the compressor. If worried about that just uplug it and tie it off safely for winter. Again - it can't make cold in weather below about 40-50F as the refrigerant wouldn't evaporate at all and it's not designed to be a freezer so forget that for now.

You said you had good water flow when flushing out core? If so then there should be enough left to core to blow decent heat. It could be covered in dirt/dust who knows in there and that could be a problem. I think this is a diverter door problem and you don't want that but let's see if we can smart it out.

If you have a cabin air filter replace it. I don't think this does but do check on that.

Feel the heater hoses with engine warmed up and heater on. Smaller should be hot to the touch and the larger (return) should feel cooler but not ice cold. If both are cold I have to think of something. If both are piping hot then no heat is exchanging at heater core which could be a diverter door/flap not allowing air to flow thru it.

Back to dirt in there possibilities: Has this been exposed to excessive dust, pollen, pine needles etc.? The air flow has me thinking about this. There are some trick without taking the whole vehicle apart if that's the problem.

May want to start a new thread with the "state of the state" now as when these get this long they are hard to follow and know what's already been ruled out. Stay warm,

T

Response From ihaveanothereye

Hey guys! I have just come across this same problem. I have replaced my radiator, thermostat, all hoses and the heater core, and I still do not have heat. My car has the exact same symptoms that sonordrumr has.

Once in a while I will feel heat, but for a very short time, then its right back to cool air. I have had many opinions and noone can seem to figure this out...

Any help is greatly appreciated... it's -6 here in Chicago, and this is my only means of transportation, and no heat hurts :(.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This thread started in 2007!

Please start a new one with your specific vehile and let's go from there,

T

Response From lldames


This thread started in 2007!

Please start a new one with your specific vehile and let's go from there,

T
HELP i have no heat or ac. Themo repalced, flush rad,switched hose Chevy Balzer 2000

Response From Hammer Time

What part of start another thread didn't you understand?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Only GOD knows HT??

Tom

Response From Double J

just wanted to jump in with my 2 cents


the a/c compressor will cycle on in the defrost setting to dehumidify the air inside the cabin.
helps on cold days to defrost windows better too.

ever ridden in a car with no a/c or a/c not working, on a rainy day/night....takes forever to clear all the glass

Problem with PO175 - Rich Bank 2

Showing 2 out of 33 Posts | Show 31 Hidden Posts
Question From MROD on Problem with PO175 - Rich Bank 2

Vehicle: 2001 E150 Econoline 4.6L FI - vin W
Milage: 114,000
Problem: OBDII Code po175 preventing tag registration (sons work van)
Long term fuel trim = 28.10 Bank 1 -35.2 Bank 2 (from scanner info)
Whats been done so far:
O2 sensors changed (both banks - both forward and after) = no change
new fuel injectors on Bank 2 = no change
New spark plugs (all 8) = no change (old plugs looked very good)
Fuel filter changed - Fuel pressure Key On Engine Off = 40psi
Fuel pressure with engine running at idle - 32psi
Fuel pressure with engine runing and gunning rpm's = 32psi + 5psi then 32psi agian
Fuel rails hold pressure after engine off ok
MAF sensor cleaner with MAF cleaner = no change (air filter good - dry type)
Tested long term fuel trim readings with each injector disconnected:
Bank1 went from roughly 28.10 to 21.0 (cyl 1,2,3,4)
Bank2 went from roughly -35.2 to -18.0 (cyl 5,6,7) and to -23.5 (cyl 8)
Engine temp seems a bit low at 199°F
Cat test was completed before I started working on vehicle
I know evap test will not complete with error code
Tail pipe clean - no soot
don't seem to have any loss of coolant - everything looks dry around intake (very complicated intake manifold on this beast)
Didn't see any obvious leaky vac hoses - EGR test completed
The engine idles like kitten - power seems to be normal
The code po175 sets very quickly all the time.
I'm at wits end on this one - since the long term trim test was so consistant, could it possibly be the PCM in this case?
I also thought maybe the fuel pressure might be high on bank 2 - but fuel pressure tests my fuel regulator seems to be working ok.
Disconnecting vac from regulator brings pressure back up to 40psi. Drats.
Scan report attached if anyone wants to see it.

Response From Sidom

Looks like you've already covered a lot of the bases. The rich bank 2 code mean obviously the bank is running rich which I'm sure you already know.

The bank 2 LTFT @ -34% which will set the code but if you look at you bank 1 LTFT, its at 17 % that's borderline setting a lean code & in your post you say you had 28 % that should set a lean code. The engine load % is way too high for idle and the air flow looks low, I'm not sure of the scale measured there, usually its grams per second.

If that has dual cats on it, I would be looking at the backpressure on Bank 2 to check the cat. On readings I've seen similar to that one of the cats was plugged........

Response From MROD

To Sidom:

Checked the back pressure of the two cats and Bank 2 was slightly higher and the pressure needle was really buncing around - up to 4 lbs spikes. Bank 1 was a little less than 1 lbs and no bouncing of the needle at all.

Does this signal anything? - there is also some mystery welding around where the Bank 2 cat is attached to the Y pipe of Bank 1 cat. The clamp is still there so why would there be welding here? We bought it used - a plumper owned it.

I think this rich problem is why it was on the lot. I know I'll never buy another vehicle witout scanning it first. Still shying away from it being an intake problem. This engine does NOT have the plastic intake manifolds - I couldn't believe it - they actually used a PLASTIC intake manifold os alot of the vehicles of this vintage.

Thanks for your interest and input.

Response From Sidom

Yea it looks like you got something going on there on bank 2. Anything over 2lbs is a little high. Anything higher than what you recorded & you would probably start noticing a drivability problem.. The welding could of possibly been done to seal a leak but who knows.....

With the fuel trim readings that you were getting, about the only single problem to give those readings that I have seen would be a restricted bank. Not saying that there couldn't be 2 or 3 things happening at the same time that would cause that but less likely...

Fuel trims are a good tool to find out what's going on when & where.

What's going on with yours, is say you have 100 grams of air coming thru the MAF, (I'm just making these numbers up) now comp knows it needs a 5ms pulse width from the injectors to hit the stoichiometric (sp) air/fuel ratio of 14.7 to 1 for both banks and on a good engine 50 grams goes down both sides, it gets its 5ms pulse & everything is good and the trims hover around 0 like they should. But if you have a restriction on one side. Now only 30 grams of the 100 goes down bank 2 but comp is still hitting it with a 5ms pulse so the air/fuel mixture is too rich and in turn the fuel trims on that bank go negative in attempt to compensate. So that means bank 1 gets 70 grams and still only a 5ms pulse, that isn't enough for 70 grams so that mixture is too lean and the fuel trims go way positive in attempt to compensate. Now the computer has probably been compensating for this problem for a while and as long as it can hit stoichio and keep the trims in range there will be no light. Once it gets out of range and in my experience thats in the 20 to 25% range, neg or pos, and it throw its hands up & turns on the light, saying it's got too bad & I can't adjust it anymore.......

I don't know if that helps any but you seem know your data so I figured I'd bore ya for a bit....

Lets us know how it works out for you once you find the problem & fix it.........

Response From MROD

To Sidom:

Update:
I undid the manifold coupling to the cat which left a little gap for exhaust to excape. The scan readings went to a lot to the plus side with the gap open and as I closed it up, the trim readings gradully went back to zero and then on to the negative side as I closed the gap even more. I think you are spot on. I now feel comfortable enough to get a replacement cat and install - looks fairly easy and access is very open under the truck.

I'll report back when I get it replaced - probably not for a week or two or three.

Response From Sidom

Thx 4 keeping us updated on your progress....Did you happen to notice if that brought the trims down from such a positive reading on bank 1?

Response From MROD

Sidom:

Yes it did.

Now I have another REAL problem. I seached the web and NOBODY offers an exact replacement cat for that darn thing and Ford wants like $800.00 + your first born - that is absurd.

I'm hoping that someone can point in the right direction here on this. I didn't expect this to be a road block. I WILL NOT spend that kind of money for a cat. Eastern offers cats and thier typ price is about $300.00.

Response From Sidom

It really depends on where your at and the particular smog laws for that state. I'm in CA and with some new laws it's got pretty crazy. If you're in a state that allows universals someone here might have a good link where you could get one..... Pros & cons with those, the price is good but I've seen new ones set a P0420 within months of being installed..........

$800 for an older Ford is kinda nut tho....got to agree with ya there............

Response From MROD Top Rated Answer

To Sidom

Update 08-23-09

Well, I finally used my eyeballs today and the reason for the welding at the cat Y connector on bank 2 is becuase IT HAS BEEN CHANGED!!! Dork faces welded it in - thank you very much. Many years ago I started to tell muffer people NOT to weld anything in place . . . . . Also, checking the EGR system and I cannot get it to open at idle with vacuum pump - valve will not hold vacuum. The "smart" PCM has told me it passed the "Ready Test" - I guess you can't always rely on the masterfull, all powerful PCM.

Still tracking down an aftermarket Cat (if anyone has any leads please let me know) (Cato and Eastern don't seem to offer a drop-in replacement) - apparently there were not too many 4.6L engines used in the mighty E150 Econline series. I'm thinking that maybe the defective EGR system may have attributed to the replacement cats early demize - or ir could be the replacement cat was not the right one in the first place.

Response From MROD

Update:

For those few who might be interested . . . .

EGR system did checked out to be OK. System checks out just fine (using vacuum gage) with the exhaust venturi tube disconnected from the EGR valve. However, with it connected, it does not create enough vacuum to open the EGR valve pintal. I suspect it is due to the partially blocked catalytic converter on Bank 2. The exaust tube cannot create enough vacuum to trigger the sensor due to the restricted exhaust flow. We shall soon see on this one.

I had a locate shop quote replacing the two cats and they wanted like $700.00. No way - I told the man to his face that it was way too high because I know the price of replacement converters after visiting every possible site on the web. I have ordered two OEM grade converters from Magnaflow (front and back) and will bulldog them into place myself, one way or another.

Response From Sidom

Thx 4 the updates M, we do appreciate it. A lot of time once someone gets it fix they just leave us hangin so it's nice to see how things are going, whether its something we suggested or not...

You do seem to have a lot of patience sticking with it this long...maybe I'll hire ya work on my truck once you get done (I hate workin on my own stuff )....

Response From MROD

09-08-2009 Update

Well, the cats are in and NOTHING has changed. Still showing -36% Long Fuel Trim on left bank 2. Did the scan before I connected the wye pipe connecting to the right Bank 1 cats.
I was sickened when I looked thru the old cats and seen lots of daylight. Ever try to cut & butt weld two cats into place using the old O2 sensor pipes - especially when your MIG welder is about 2 days old and you dont have any welding talent to speak of? Good thing I don't drink anymore otherwise there would have been a 2 day blackout.
Job looks pretty good tho I must say.

Only two things left before I go get some C4.
1. Intake manifold (which I don't think it really is)
2. ECM -would reflashing or getting a replacement be a fix? Is the fuel trim info in that flash memory? With a -36% trim correction you would think the engine could not run - but it seams to run OK and idles just fine.

This is turning out to be a very tough one and I need input. Is a visit to the Ford dealer in order (Gerrrr)?

Response From Sidom

I really doubt it's the intake manifold either.... If anything that would give you a lean code.

This is definitely a strange problem... The backpressure reading you had taken earlier would support a problem in the exhaust.

In order to get the reading you are getting there would have to be 2 very different problems going on in each bank. One side causing a rich condition the other side causing a lean condition. I went over your 1st post and there is a lot of stuff you have already replaced that could possibly cause those problems. Ford does have problems with their MAFs that sometimes cleaning doesn't fix but then again, you would have 2 banks with lean codes.... I really don't like to say never because anything is possible but I have never seen a MAF fail that makes one bank rich and the other lean.....

Have you cleared out the KAM (learned adaptives) and driven it? If you've cleared it with your scanner try disconnecting both battery cables, touch them together and turn the lights on. Then hook the battery back up and drive it....

I seem to remember checking TSBs but took a look again and didn't see anything about a reflash for this problem....

Response From MROD

10-02-2009 Update

Well, it's still in my driveway.

After replacing MAF sensor from the zone it ran like crap and they would not refund me my money (or even sell me my old core back) - they have nice racket going there. I will not be getting into the zone again.

Bought one on sale from Ford dealer for $210.00 - now runs like it did before and still have -36% LTFT. Also replace the EGR diff sensor (also on sale from Ford) - still -36% LTFT on Bank 2.

Going to replace the fuel regulator tommorrow - Motorcraft replacement. I will be able to work on this engine blindfolded pretty soon.

Question
There was a large u-shaped peice of fairly thick plastic which was mounted inbetween and around the back side of the upper and lower intake manifolds. It looked like a shield of some sort, but it was all broken up and I had to take it out in small peices. Anyone know what this was for? I hope the lower manifold is not made from the same material.

Response From Sidom

That's a bad deal with AZ. Most parts house won't refund electronics & comp stuff that's been installed just because of when it doesn't solve the problem people try to refund it. Your case was different where it made it run worse (has happened to me on reman stuff). I'm surprised they didn't exchange it for you or at least give you your old one back for the core price (if they still had it).

I'm drawing a blank on that piece right now (probably due to the stuff the doc has me on right now) but if you could post a picture, that would help.

You know, I'm having a real had time with those trim & backpressure readings you posted. It all points to something going on in the exhaust on the left bank. Obviously I'm missing something. Now there is a bunch of scenarios for those trims if you have 2 different things going, but alot of that stuff, you've already replaced..... Then I come back to the high bp reading on B2 that spikes to 4 lbs....... Make me think of a no start Chevelle I had about 25 years ago that drove me crazy. End result was the inner wall of the exhaust had come apart & rolled up completely sealing the exhausted, the pipe "looked" good from outside.

I'm gonna have to ponder this some more. This one is driving me nuts as well...

Response From MROD



After I installed the cats on bank 2 I did not weld that side back to the Y connector right away and ran the diagnostics again - still -30+ on long time fuel trim reading.

The plastic part I'm talking about what so broken up, I could not even tell what it looked like in one piece. I'm toying with the idea (if the fuel pressure regulator is not it) to drop the exhaust manifold on bank 2 for a peek.

There are ecm's out there for like $350 and they say to provide mileage and vin number so they can "crank that into the module. I have tried e-mailing these folks (two different ones) and they will not answer me when I ask if the modules are "drop-in ready", not requiring a Ford dealer to program anything into them. Curious. It's really neat how Ford mounts the ecms - they pull out like a dvd drive in a computer.

Changing regulator now. Sorry for the length of this thread.

Later

Response From MROD

Update 10-04-2009

Changed fuel regulator and didn't get out of the driveway before it threw the po175 code. This engine is running fairly well and I becoming more and more convinced it is the ecm. I think it has had a stroke in the area controlling fuel trims.

It's not throwing the lean code for bank 1, but it has got to be close to doing so. You would think there would be idle and drivability problems if bank 2 was really that rich. The original cats and bank 2 sure didn't show any signs of it.

Any comments in changing out the ecm would be appricaited. Maybe at this point I should just throw in the towel and take it in. If it is the ecm, obviously, I will never find the problem.

Response From Sidom

It's possible but if this was just a fuel trim problem with the PCM they can normal fix that with a new flash. I did check and didn't see any but maybe check with Ford service to be sure (not like I've never missed something )

Response From MROD

Out of curiosity, I switched the front o2 sensor connections (cables were long enough) and cleared kam. Interesting results. BOTH sides now indicate a -24% STFT. Engine still running just fine, idles good. Doing this did not seem to effect how it starts, idles. I can also gun it without a stall or miss. I did not road drive it this way.

1. ECM bad - needs flashing? Is flashing writing to a ROM chip (different than kam) ?
2. Did you indicate that this ECM CANNOT be flashed? Can a Ford dealer flash the ECM only if I take just the ECM in - or are they not into that just out of principle $$$?
3. The IAC valve was not extremely dirty, but the resting position of the valve could be pushed back and forth a bit freely. Seems to me there should NOT be this play (slop) in the normal resting position.

Thanks for your comments - finding a replacement ecm is not easy for this 4.6L. Since 60% of the 2001 E150 workvans out there have 4.6l W engines, I would think they would be more plentiful - maybe there is a reason why they are in short supply?

Response From Sidom

The PCM can be flashed but would have to be done in the vehicle. Some parts houses that sell PCMs have the equipment to flash them out of the car but any shops equipment does it in the vehicle......

I was actually thinking about a possible crossed O2 last night.......funny you already tried it...
Getting the rears crossed is more common due to how close together they are, the newer Fords actually have a code now to indicate this problem.....

I would go thru and disconnect them one at a time and on your scanner verify that the position is correct. Disconnect B1S1 and verify that that PID is dead on your scanner, then B1S2 & so on.........

Response From MROD

Sidom:

I crossed the two front o2 sensors on purpose just to see what I would get. I got 2 rich banks (originally I had Bank2 rich and Bank1 lean). I figure this should not have happened and since I have checked and changed just about everything else possible, the ECM is my next target.

I have ordered a Cardone ECM from Rockauto and am having them program it (flash it). Also replacing the IAC valve becuase of valve play (maybe the play should be there - replacing it anyway).

I will post the results of the new ECM. Hopefully, this will bring this to a close and my final comments.

My son has been very understanding. I have spent a lot, but I have also learned a great deal.

Response From MROD


Update:

This is getting comical to say the least.

Installed the replacement ECM and the truck will NOT fire at all - not even a sputter. Ran scan and got code P1639 which says "PCM Vehicle Identification Block Corrupted or Not Programmed".

The ECM was supposed to be flashed by Rockauto/Cardone, but I don't think it was. So now it looks like I will have to send it back for the flashing (programming) I paid for. Gezz.

Can anyone out there confirm if when you install a Ford replacement ECM WITHOUT "flashing" that the vehicle will not fire?

I'm going to reistall my old module and I'm sure it will fire right up.

Till next update . . . .

Response From Hammer Time

I was under the impression that those had to be flashed in the vehicle. Personally, I would never use a Cardone computer in anything. I've had too many bad ones in the past. I know GM won't even accept them as cores most times.

Response From MROD

Well your just brimming with good news Hammer Time. That's the problem if your not experienced, you have no idea what to look out for. I'm in the fire now on this ECM, so I'll hope for the best. I'm just about beaten down on this one.

Response From MROD

For those interested:

When I installed the ECM and the engine did not fire, I ran a key on engine off scan and got a code P1639 "PCM Vehicle Identification Block Corrupted or Not Programmed". I suspect this is why the ECM is dead for now.

Rockauto told me I needed only flashing and not VIN programming. I can't blame Cardone - they were only doing what Rockauto told them to do. Now I'll send it back to get the VIN programming done.

For now, just so I can drive it around the driveway, I slipped the old ECM in and it fired right up.

See Ya :=)

Response From MROD

11-03-2009 Update

Installed replacement ECM (second one) and truck fired right up. Unfortunately, it did nothing to correct the problem. At this point NOTHING surprises me. The PO175 code set in the first drive cycle. I can do no more. In hindsight, I did way too much before taking it in. Oh, well.

Truck is now at the local Ford dealership. I will update you with what they find.

Response From Hammer Time

See what I meant about those Cardone computers?

Response From MROD

11-04-2009 Update

Well, I took the van into a large local Ford dealership and after replacing my replacement O2 sensors and putting in my original ECM, they cannot find the problem either. So I told them to pull the O2 sensors and button it back up.

This venture cost me $500 plus.

The next step for Ford would have been 5 hours of labor to dig into the timing chain & tensioner to see if there is a problem there (timing issues apparently). I could not justify any more exploratory surgery + the additional time and parts required if it were the problem. So here I sit. Not sure what I will do next. Maybe it is "engine exchange" time ($2500+). They did not seem to indicate a valve or carbon issue.

How much is a 2001 E150 van worth.

Response From Hammer Time

These things are pretty notorious for bad fuel pressure regulators and leaking injectors. Pull the vacuum line off the regulator after the engine has been running and look for any sign of gas in it. You can check the injectors with a fuel pressure gauge and looking for the rest pressure to drop immediately when shut off. It would require further testing if it did to confirm it's the injectors doing it.

Response From way2old

As an off the wall reply---We have run into several fuel regulators that were partially blocked open and caused a rich condition. They were blocked open by what seemed like charcoal deposits. May not relate to yours, but we have run into 3 or 4 of the 4.6 engines do this. Just another fuzzy part of a dizzying puzzle.

Response From MROD

Thanks Way2old
I first thought the regulator, which is welded to the left fuel rail was unserviceable, but it looks like it does come apart so I can easily check for any deposits.

Response From way2old

The regulator is held into the housing with a snap-ring. After removing the ring, twist the regulator and it will come out. Good luck.

Response From MROD

Thanks Sidom, I appreciate your input and I will persue checking the cat on that side.