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2015 Ram C/V Air Filter NPN

P311-23812CB    W0133-1912269  New

NPN Air Filter
Brand: NPN
Additional Fitment Information:
2015 - Ram C/V
2011 Ram Dakota Air Filter Full

P311-3C7F1AA    W0133-1786619  New

Full Air Filter
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
2011 - Ram Dakota
2011 Ram Dakota Air Filter 8 Cyl 4.7L Hastings

P311-48B95D2    AF899  New

Hastings Air Filter
  • Panel Air Element
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 72
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram Dakota V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Premium Guard
2011 Ram Dakota Air Filter 6 Cyl 3.7L Premium Guard - Air Filter

P311-3B5A2B4    PA4372  New

SA7877 , 8953004383 , A-112 , AF7877 , AF4372 , CA3901 , PA-150 , 23-3046-0 , A4372 , PZA-150 , LT29 , MA4372 , 22897 , 66-2048 , AF353 , VA4372 , P6077 , 33-2175 , PA3901 , 66077 , A731 , SA-77 , SA3901 , MGA46077 , 1166 , PGA-4372 , A24372 , FA-1338 , SA24372 , 66-2122 , 2082 , GA-3901 , VA76 , 33-2018 , AF3901 , SA353 , PA2163 , A-3901 , TS29 , A1166C , AF26307 , 26077 , XA4372 , FA-1787 , DA2611 , ALA-8403 , PA4372F , EAA29 , SHA79 , GA24372 , 94077 , VA90 , CA4372 , AF4965 , P534105 , PAB3901 , MGA3901 , HSA-677 , CF-4372 , F-39A01 , AF899 , QSA3901 , 33-2084 , TA-79 , AFL-353 , C35941 , 73475 , FA-1099 , MA 1007 , QA24372 , CFA3901 , 33-2122 , BA4372 , A-25 , TA3901 , 53004383AB , AC276 , 5000-29118 , CA7877 , 53004 383AB , AE3901 , 270 , AF2040 , SA-87 , PA4372 , DA3901 , JLA4372 , 33-2763 , MA3901 , AF899F , LA1252 , 53004383 , 88077 , 042-1619 , HA3901 , 46077 , 6077

Premium Guard Air Filter
  • Air Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram Dakota V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Premium Guard
2011 Ram 1500 Air Filter 6 Cyl 3.7L Premium Guard - Air Filter

P311-3B575E1    PA5462  New

GA35462 , DA9401 , 87725 , MGA9401 , F-24A04 , PZA-271 , A2943C , BA5462 , AF3590 , HA9401 , PA-271 , MA3462 , SA35462 , PA5462F , VA160 , PA5462 , AF9401 , 62725 , AF5462 , XA3462 , AF1112 , PAB9401 , EAA176 , CFA1139 , AF26298 , AE9401 , 366 , CA-9401 , 42725 , CA9401 , 22725 , 5303240AA , QSA9401 , MO-404 , PA4151 , P2725 , AF1139 , GA-490 , 33-2247 , PPA5462 , A35462 , 5000-203656 , 53032404AA , TA9401 , 2725 , 53032404AB , VA5462 , AF1139F , P607277 , HA35462 , MA 1037 , TA-188 , SHA188 , A3590 , SA9401 , MA9401 , MA5462 , MGA42725

Premium Guard Air Filter
  • Air Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Height:
      • 1.81 In
      • 46 Mm
    • Shape: Panel
    • Side A Length:
      • 13.78 In
      • 350 Mm
    • Side B Length:
      • 238 Mm
      • 9.37 In
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Ram 1500 V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
2015 Ram C/V Air Filter Mopar

P311-35125D0    W0133-1912269  New

Mopar Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
2015 - Ram C/V
2011 Ram Dakota Air Filter Mopar

P311-09A09B8    W0133-1786619  New

Mopar Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
2011 - Ram Dakota
2018 Ram 4500 Air Filter Mopar

P311-04A40F5    W0133-1809692  New

Mopar Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
2018 - Ram 4500
2018 Ram ProMaster City Air Filter NPN

P311-40FE918    W0133-2043762  New

NPN Air Filter
Brand: NPN
Additional Fitment Information:
2018 - Ram ProMaster City
2018 Ram ProMaster City Air Filter Mopar

P311-26D8D11    W0133-2043762  New

Mopar Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
2018 - Ram ProMaster City

Latest Ram Repair and Air Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Dodge Ram won't start during/after rain

Showing 8 out of 22 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From smcvey on Dodge Ram won't start during/after rain

I have two (don't ask why) Dodge Ram 1500's. One is 2000 one is 1999. Neither of them will start up after it rains. It takes forever and sometimes I have to wait 20 - 30 minutes and then come back out and try again. Both of them turn over but don't catch. Is this a common problem with Dodge's?

Also, when we were trying to start one of them up today....and it hadn't rained but it's been quite humid and foggy....we lifted the hood while trying. In the case where the air filter is housed there was smoke coming out of there. Sometimes the engine makes such a loud noise that I can't believe it still runs at all.

The trucks always start up eventually, although sometimes we have to jump them due to running the battery down trying.

I haven't tried anything because I don't have any idea what to do. I can get around an engine a little bit, but give me a break, I'm a mom with teenage kids that have no idea how to do anything other than put gas in and drive......HELP!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

smcvey; No, this isn't a 'common' complaint with Dodge's. Could be moisture around/inside the distributor cap? Lack of fuel pressure? Coolant temp sensor? Do you have a check engine light on while the engine is running? Next time it refuses to start, try holding the gas pedal to the floor. Don't pump it, just hold it steady. If the engine then starts, of course, start letting off of the pedal so as not to allow the engine to over-rev. This will tell us if it is an over-fueling issue. Smell the oil. Does it smell like gasoline?

Response From smcvey

Since it's really misty again today I tried just holding it to the floor and that didn't work. And no, the oil doesn't smell like gas either.????
I can probably locate the distributor cap but if there isn't an apparent crack how will I know if moisture is getting in? Sometimes is acts like it's just shutting everything down at once and it's a really weird sound that I can't even describe.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

smcvey; You can remove the distributor cap and take a look inside, checking for condensation. Also, at night, take a spray bottle with water in it and spray the distributor cap with a mist while looking for 'spark' jumping. We may not even be headed in the right direction....could be something totally different going on, but I'm trying to think of the simplest, common, type problems. You mentioned a 'weird' noise. Can you try to describe it and when you hear it? I know, noises are very hard to describe in text. Just do the best you can; Maybe, hopefully, one of the others here may have some suggestions to look at or try?

Response From fliptail

I think that's headed in the right direction. There is most likely an insulation break down some where.

Response From smcvey

OK I will locate the distributor cap today and try misting it tonight. We're having trouble again this morning....will it ever dry out....and one sound that it makes sounds like a big gush of air makes it's way through and then everything just sort of sputters. Another sound is like the engine is cranking and then all of a sudden a metal on metal screech that shuts everything down. That's the best I can do at these sounds, I've just never heard the one before.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

The 'gush' of air you describe could be from the engine backfiring up through the plenum? Again, from moisture inside or outside of the distributor cap? Very rare, but the metal screech could be coming from the distributor, too. Once running, listen closely to try and find the origin of the screech. If you let me know which engine this has, I can get you a pic of the distributor cap.

Response From smcvey

It has a V8 Magnum. I hope you can get the diagram because I didn't see anything that looked like a distributor cap to me. I want to thank you for all the work you're doing, I really appreciate it.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

https://www.mycarquesthomepage.com/graphicImages/small/025889179968_FRO.jpgThis is a pic of the distributor cap. The spark plug wires attach to it.

Response From smcvey

That's what I've been looking for but can't find it. Do you have any idea where it is located?

Response From Hammer Time

What engine do you have?

Response From smcvey Top Rated Answer

v8 Magnum??

Response From Hammer Time

That doesn't tell me anything. There are numerous V8s and a V10. I need to know the exact size engine and whether it's a 1500 or a 2500.
If you don't know, give me the 8th digit of the VIN#

Response From smcvey

It's a Dodge 1500 and the 8th digit is Z.

Response From Hammer Time

You have a 5.9 light duty.

The distributor is in the rear of the engine at the center top. You may have to remove the air filter housing to see it.

Just follow any of the plug wires back to it.

Response From smcvey

Thank you. I think I will have to remove the air filter housing because I absolutely can't find it right now and all the wires lead to that area. THANKS!!!

Response From wdano

my father had exact same issue with his 1500, and yes his is also a 5.9L. I don't know what it was that finally fixed the problem but we changed all ignition wires, distributor, distributer cap after all of that the truck seemed good for about a month, then wet weather hit and it did it again...we then noticed a slight whistle from underneath the intake manifold, sure as snow is white the seal was completely done. we fabricated a new seal right then to test our theory, its been two years now with our "temporary seal" and the problem has not occurred again. just my two cents.

Response From rags2rags


Very interesting theory. I think you may be on to something regarding the intake. How did you fabricate a new seal?

My 2000 Dodge Ram has the exact same problem as your dad. I've always noticed a constant sort of vacuum-like sound coming from the engine compartment, as if I had the air cleaner off or something. If I leave it sit for over 24 hours without a start, and it gets humid (and cool) out, it just plain will NOT start. Plain and simple. And by the way, on ANY other type of day, whether -20 degrees, +90 degrees, whatever, as long as it isn't really humid, it'll start guaranteed on first pull within 1.27 seconds give or take. Baby runs swwweeeeettt!!!

smc, did you ever find the source of your particular problem?


Response From nhguy

Have a 99 Ram 1500 5.9 About a year ago, had this problem. Refused to start during rainy weather, til the point that actually had a MAJOR backfire thru the intake. ALL plastic above the manifold literally blew apart off the engine!

AAA towed to my mechanic, then was asked how much dynamite I used? Short answer- they did a diagnostic, and a "cold" temp sensor told the ignition system that the temp was (get this-) 8 MILLION degrees below zero! Basically, all air intake was shut down and copious gas was being shot in to compensate. Only happened in wet weather. Mechanic replaced sensor and destroyed intake plastic.

Worked well for the last year, but is now starting to rear its ugly head again. Gotta get get it back in the shop before I have another explosion and lill the neighbor's cat with resulting flying shrapnel.

RUST RUST RUST is yet another issue! Body is slowly dying from salt cancer, as is the case with most Dodge trucks of this vintage. Probably will not take a sticker this summer. Should have stuck with being a FORD guy!!!! Gonna replace it with one and not look back....

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sport - this thread is almost a year and a half old. Please look for dates and post as you wish on current threads or start your own new one,

Tom (thread now locked)

Response From Hammer Time

This thread is 2 years old. If you have a question, please start a new thread.

Response From smcvey

Sounds like a great place to start! Thanks for your input.

Is this Firebird mod safe?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Is this Firebird mod safe?

I have an 88' Firebird TBI 5.0

A guy on my third generation F-body forum told me I could take the air filter out of my air cleaner(which is round) and put a taller filter in. He said I should flip over the cover, and tighten it upside down, so about 1 inch of the air filter is still visible. He said it gave him better acceleration. Is that safe?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

The air cleaner assy is also a spark arrester. This impedes some of the effectiveness of that. It also makes for a loader cool noise of the carb sucking in fuel and air which makes it sound impressive but not legal as that is considered noise pollution.

I could be of marginal help for plain HP but defeats the Thermac system to atomize fuel faster when cold hence uses more fuel.

Also prohibits the induction of air from preferred locations extending air filter life. HO, HP vehicles from factory have used dual snorkels to assist in this.

The quality and condition of the air filter is of primal importance and keeping that in top shape will always help.

In short: It can help for just plain HP with side effects. Marine engines don't bother with with air filters at all but instead use an all metal 360 degree spark arrestor as road dirt is not a problem with marine use (same basic engines are used) and more power and less complication is always nice for that use. Those spark arrestors will stop large particles but are not an air filter.

This would not be legal where I live as if anyone pays attention. Marginal for performance but does make an impressive roar. I equate that to putting baseball cards in the spokes of a bicycle to make it sound cool which of course does nothing for the bicycle. Ram air does help when vehicle is at speed at the real force of air going into your engine is only the force of atmospheric pressure and when you trap and ram the air you effectively increase the atmospheric pressure.

Note: The density of the incoming air is important and for real. Performance and max HP will be at sea level or lower when atmospheric pressure is is higher than average which occurs on cloudless days.

Probably more than you wanted to know....


Air filter box intake

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From BollWeevil on Air filter box intake

Just bought:
2009 F150 XLT 5.4L 4x4

Stock air filter box (new KN reusable flat filter) and tubing to throttle body; but my question is about the air intake into the filter box.

Where air enters the filter box, it appeared to me to be so confined that significantly little air could get in. This was due to the side panel, plastic from tire fender well, and 2 rubber skirtings (which appear to have no use other than keeping water/mud away from box) completely encasing the filter box intake.

So I ran a 3" HVAC duct from the box intake down in between radiator and bumper/grill. The duct is about 4' long. There is definitely plenty of air available now; however am I losing fuel efficiency, power or is the engine working harder now that it has to suck air through 4 more feet? Have I done a good thing or should I change it back? Thanks

Response From BollWeevil

What's so bad about K&N filters? And what brand would you recommend? And the only non stock item is the 4' HVAC duct. So the only difference is more air is available. Again I bought this used, so I don't know if the rubber skirts are modifications. I do know that the air filter box and all the tubing to the throttle body are stock. I agree Ford has done their research but my question hasn't been answered.

Is it more of a strain to suck air an additional 4'? This is the only difference.

I've considered water/mud but I don't go through deep enough to worry. Normal driving and even heavy rain and puddles pure physics shows that no water is getting into air filter much less throttle body. In fact my set up is less likely for this to happen because the water would have to travel about 3-4' up to get to the filter then pass through it onto the throttle body. The original stock intake is basically level with the tubes and throttle body.

I can see what you're saying about the MAF sensor however I don't see how there's additional turbulence because the air goes through the stock air filter, but you may be right.

More air is better and it's free. The only thing done is how far air intake is from the filter box and filter. If there was a complete obstruction over the stock filter box intake then it gets no air thus won't run.

Does anyone know if an additional 4' will cause poorer fuel efficiency?

Response From Hammer Time

I can see we're just wasting our typing here.

Let me reiterate.

K&N makes claims that aren't true. They are just junk and unnecessary modifications.

If you doubt water can make it all the way into the cylinder, you are in for a surprise. I have personally seen it happen over a dozen times with complete catastrophic results.

More air is not an automatic benefit. The system is engineered with all the air the engine is capable of drawing in.

Take that junk and throw it in the trash where it belongs.

Response From BollWeevil

Water was an original concern for me; yet I didn't think there was any way it could get to the engine. Thanks for sharing your insight.

Still can't upload any pictures. Hopefully I explained my situation effectively and your advice is applicable. I can't educate myself if I don't ask, so thanks for all your time. It's been helpful

Response From Hammer Time

Water was an original concern for me; yet I didn't think there was any way it could get to the engine.

I guarantee you that if you drive through high water with a low air pick up, you will be buying an engine. I have personally seen at least a dozen destroyed that way, 3 in the same storm one time.

Let's be clear what we are saying about K&N. It is an over priced but quality filter but it will not increase your horsepower or fuel mileage one bit, no matter what crap they sling you to sell it.

Response From BollWeevil

Sure I can see submerging the intake would create problems. Now that I've learned it's possible even without going through high water I can make changes.

I didn't know anything about the K&N filter so I'm not sure what the "hype" is they're trying to sell. I didn't care what filter I got. The only reason I got the K&N was it was washable and reuseable. I'm guessing that's one of the things they are advertising that y'all are saying isn't as great as they claim.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sport - Quit wasting time - they don't help at best. Nice thought they are re-usable - so are ones in some lawnmowers!
Own an oil bath air filter in a tractor that works right now - designed for it.

Have seen OE Caravans (The Chrysler minivans) suck up water OE and bang - game over. That was OE! They are also owned by FIAT now for their shear brilliance!

Things that don't work off the top of my head that are not suggested up to cause harm:
1. Spark plugs with wild claims.

2. 99% of products to improve how it runs you add to fuel.

3. Sealers - 99% cause problems not fix them.

4. Magic fuel additives like octane boosters + junk that makes more power increases MPG lots - not.

5. Little Tree Air fresheners do work - about an hour! Buy those instead as they don't hurt much, don't mess with engine operation unless you put one in air intake.

Almost or more than an entire isle of especially chain parts outlets sell tons of stuff that plain doesn't work because it sells. Companies pay them off for end isle displays even. They pay for what position on store shelves also - grocery stores are famous for this. It's not chance - it's corrupt marketing - buyers beware. It's legal for them to do that.
You just got this thing and understand the excitement. Save you money and just keep the thing in excellent shape and maintain it. If you must buy LED tire valve lights, stickers, decals, floor mats or something harmless.

Things that work:
1. Synthetic oils (some vehicles require it)
2. Proper care as per Owner's Manual - read it.
3. Driving carefully
4. Keep tires at proper pressure! (unreal how many don't)
5. Park in shade and out of weather if possible - climate controlled garaged best.

That's about it. The rest of anything is almost all bullcrap,


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote you ">>I can't see a major company making illegal stock air filters."
It's not illegal to sell junk and it's J-U-N-K with superior marketing and lies. Already said if it worked it would be original equipment.

What you risk is altering a VERY important part of how the engine runs. The vehicle knows the incoming air speed and temperature and adjusts instantly and accordingly to max out performance, fuel economy with the least emissions. That's why you already have problems - you messed that up with JUNK. It's not meant for vehicles much newer than now about 40 year old stuff you could dress up and make some extra performance over original design.

If this picks up water already mentioned it will instantly destroy the whole engine - nice idea and it really will if just the right puddle and situation will suck in water which doesn't compress. If forced to try to it will crack the engine hopelessly. It's legal to allow that if you drank the Kool-Aid. Some places, where I live by chance it's illegal to touch anything OE about an engine - period. If noticed it would be towed from a public road at your expense and you can do what you want on your own property but not on a public road.

You could recolor or chrome exact parts.

For an air filter there are aftermarket brands that are exact duplicates of the original for routine replacement. You do NOT have to buy one from Ford in this case, Fram, Purolator, Wix, Napa brands and a dozen more and it's possible K&N makes an OE one just put it in - no alterations.

It's more than just wrecking your performance it's not proven fire safe TMK also. A backfire isn't necessarily controlled by this mess.

Not trying to be a kill-joy but the alterations and fun to play around with an engine about ended in model year 1983 or so where I am. Still can't alter visually any safety or item that could change emissions.

Forget legalities if you want as with hood closed who would know? The problem is it doesn't work - it's a lie to sell you this stuff and they got away with it.
Hey - this site is loaded with techs, younger or older from all over the US a couple from Canada about the same vehicles sold.

Sorry to beat up on this but you ARE having problems already proving it doesn't work. Replies are by tech's that know it doesn't work. This is MA where I am. Look at the sticker under your hood someplace that states the vehicle complies with standards for CA and MA when sold new. If not there you would have to put it back or couldn't buy a new car/vehicle and register it here without a certificate that it's been certified compliant - most would be new now and have been.

I don't personally care what you do to your own property AYOR if it works or not, this doesn't.
Nuff said - have at it or learn the hard way,


Response From BollWeevil

I genuinely appreciate your time and info. I don't know what to believe from you. You've contradicted yourself. In your first post K&N is a terrible filter. Now in your second post you list it with other brands as ok to use??? You seem to think I have problems with my truck which I don't. The truck is running just fine with the way I have set it up. I was hoping to get some better MPG and in the city it seems the same yet hwy I'll have to wait and see. The other information you've provided I appreciate and will consider. However it does seem that all are saying it's not a good idea to extend the air intake hole, and won't increase fuel efficiency.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok - I/we've bashed K&N enough mostly because they claim bull that isn't true. IF they stuck to just making good air filter, and other things they'd gain respect.
Parts by brand change like the wind. OE isn't made by the manufacturer of any - it's all sent out to make to a certain specification and put their name on it. IDK a car maker that makes tires, shocks, wiring harnesses the metal - not much. They design it which costs billions and if a big mistake go bankrupt like that hasn't happened.

It's wildly completive to make a vehicle - about any, with some bragging rights. Power in it's class, towing capacity, safety, MPGs, dependability and a long list. If something was so easy as changing how air is inducted/routed gave it even 1% it would be done new. If they don't sell and make customers happy they are toast.

Light of heart sport. It's a good truck by design without messing with it. Best thing you could do for it is use proper rated synthetic oils and greases an changed on time.

Good luck with it,


Response From BollWeevil

Good to hear about synthetic oil, that's what I went with and Ford's recommended 5w-20.

Response From Discretesignals

Its not so much the K&N filter element, it's the use of too much oil. I wouldn't put an oiled air filter on a MAF system regardless. The paper filters does a fine job as long as they are sealed properly.

GM has a TSB on this:

Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B

Date: February 01, 2007


Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon (SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air Filter

2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks
2007 and Prior Saturn Models
2003-2007 HUMMER H2
2006-2007 HUMMER H3
2005-2007 Saab 9-7X

The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:

Service Engine Soon (SES) light on

Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)

Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range

The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.

When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the concern.

The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.

If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.

Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not considered to be warrantable repair items.

I would consider this TSB to apply to any vehicle.

Response From BollWeevil

Thanks I appreciate your time, you've given me helpful information to go forward. Especially with the oiled filter.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I don't need to see anything but words K&N - remove all that junk and put back OE set up exactly. It's all junk, harms performance, doesn't work as advertised, may be illegal in places.

Think: This truck is possibly the most popular vehicle never mind a truck there is. If some crappy junk made it work better, run better, cleaner, more power so easily Ford would have done it new OE. Everything including temp of air coming in, pressure by design of body and not allowing water to enter all count big time,


Response From BollWeevil

Not sure what you mean by all that junk. The only modification is a 4' HVAC duct? What filter brand would you recommend? I can't see a major company making illegal stock air filters. It's what an individual may put on that could be illegal, and mine isn't.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

You should change it back. You might be causing a ram air situation which will cause the MAF sensor output to be different than what it normally would be. You also might be changing the way the air flows through the sensor due to turbulence. The software in the PCM is not set up to handle ram air or supercharging conditions.

The engineers know how much air flow the engine requires and how to design the air intake system to get the best performance/economy and at the same time reduce intake air noise. Unless you were modifying the engine so it pumps more air why change the characteristics of the air intake system?

Response From Hammer Time

So I ran a 3" HVAC duct from the box intake down in between radiator and bumper/grill. The duct is about 4' long.

That is the dumbest and fastest way i know to blow an engine. The first rain puddle you hit and that thing takes a gulp of water and your connecting rod is going to ventilate the side of your block.

I agree with Tom. Take that K&N crap and throw it away. It has absolutely NO BENEFIT whatsoever. It's marketing hype.


Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From rhinostout on 01 RAM: HAS FUEL, HAS FIRE WILL NOT START

2001 Dodge Ram
5.9Ltr 198000 miles
Started my truck with remote starter this morning to leave out. I received a phone call after about 5 minutes shut off the truck. Roughly 2 hours later went out to start up the truck it would turn over but wouldn't start. I checked for spark through the coil got a yellow/blue spark. So I took off the air filter and sprayed fuel directly tried to start truck I tried remotely and with the key several times never started at times I thought it was going to start, got a bump a few times but it never did start. Checked fuses and swapped relays around. Not sure what do next. Pleased any help would be very much appreciated.
Thank You
Personal info deleted

Response From mikeatpriestlake Top Rated Answer

even if you have fuel, you may not have the correct pressure. you will need to find out the spec for your vehicle and then test for it.

Response From Hammer Time

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.