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Best Selling Genuine Mini Air Filters

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  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Mini Replacement Air Filter Parts

We stock Air Filter parts for most Mini models, including Cooper, Cooper Clubman, Cooper Countryman, Cooper Paceman.


Hastings
2013 Mini Cooper Air Filter 4 Cyl 1.6L Hastings

P311-0E62D22    AF1270  New

Qty:
10.98
Hastings Air Filter
  • Panel Air Element
  • ; 10 27/32 Inch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 96
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Mini Cooper N18B16A Turbocharged L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1598
Hastings
2010 Mini Cooper Air Filter 4 Cyl 1.6L Hastings

P311-0E62D22    AF1270  New

Qty:
10.98
Hastings Air Filter
  • Panel Air Element
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 96
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2010 - Mini Cooper Convertible Turbocharged L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1598
Mann-Filter
2012 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-2BEC777    W0133-1812341  New

Qty:
17.83
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mann-Filter
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2012 - Mini Cooper Naturally Aspirated
Mahle
2013 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mahle

P311-2B7F89D    W0133-1812341  New

Qty:
23.62
Mahle Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2013 - Mini Cooper Naturally Aspirated
Mann-Filter
2015 Mini Cooper Air Filter 4 Cyl 1.6L Mann-Filter

P311-55C36C2    W0133-1812342  New

Qty:
27.80
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mann-Filter
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Mini Cooper Turbocharged L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1598
Mann-Filter
2010 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-55C36C2    W0133-1812342  New

Qty:
27.80
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Excluding John Cooper Works Kit
Brand: Mann-Filter
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2010 - Mini Cooper N14B16A
Mahle
2006 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mahle

P311-3897E73    W0133-1823560  New

Qty:
49.32
Mahle Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; with John Cooper Works Kit (S3ALA)
  • Includes Bracket and Screw
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2006 - Mini Cooper Supercharged
Mahle
2010 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mahle

P311-3897E73    W0133-1823560  New

Qty:
49.32
Mahle Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; with John Cooper Works Kit
  • Includes Bracket and Screw
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2010 - Mini Cooper N14B16A
Mahle
2008 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mahle

P311-3897E73    W0133-1823560  New

Qty:
49.32
Mahle Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; with John Coopers Works Kit
  • Includes Bracket and Screw
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2008 - Mini Cooper W11B16A
Mann-Filter
2009 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-55C36C2    W0133-1812342  New

Qty:
27.80
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Except John Cooper Works Kit
Brand: Mann-Filter
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2009 - Mini Cooper N14B16A
Mann-Filter
2018 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-2D1DE49    W0133-2035090  New

Qty:
28.26
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mann-Filter
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Mini Cooper
Hengst
2003 Mini Cooper Air Filter Hengst

P311-3FFC2B2    W0133-1635645  New

Qty:
35.35
Hengst Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Except Cold Climate Version
Brand: Hengst
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration
2003 - Mini Cooper Naturally Aspirated
Hengst
2004 Mini Cooper Air Filter Hengst

P311-3FFC2B2    W0133-1635645  New

Qty:
35.35
Hengst Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: -06/30/2004, Except Cold Climate Version
Brand: Hengst
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Prod. Date Range
2004 - Mini Cooper Naturally Aspirated To:06-30-04
Hengst
2004 Mini Cooper Air Filter Hengst

P311-3FFC2B2    W0133-1635645  New

Qty:
35.35
Hengst Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 07/01/2004-, Except Cold Climate Version
Brand: Hengst
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Prod. Date Range
2004 - Mini Cooper Automatic CVT Fr:07-01-04
Mann-Filter
2008 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-07F7BCA    W0133-1634262  New

Qty:
17.18
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Except John Cooper Works Kit
Brand: Mann-Filter
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2008 - Mini Cooper W11B16A
Mahle
2008 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mahle

P311-07E58A3    W0133-1634262  New

Qty:
18.52
Mahle Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Except John Cooper Works Kit
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2008 - Mini Cooper W11B16A
Mann-Filter
2004 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-52717ED    W0133-1766903  New

Qty:
26.89
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 07/01/2004-, Except Cold Climate Version
Brand: Mann-Filter
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Aspiration Prod. Date Range
2004 - Mini Cooper Manual Naturally Aspirated Fr:07-01-04
Mahle
2004 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mahle

P311-53129D8    W0133-1766903  New

Qty:
28.32
Mahle Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 07/01/2004-, Except Cold Climate Version
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Aspiration Prod. Date Range
2004 - Mini Cooper Manual Naturally Aspirated Fr:07-01-04
Mann-Filter
2008 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-52717ED    W0133-1766903  New

Qty:
26.89
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Except Cold Climate Version
Brand: Mann-Filter
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Engine Designation
2008 - Mini Cooper Manual W10B16A
Mahle
2007 Mini Cooper Air Filter Mahle

P311-53129D8    W0133-1766903  New

Qty:
28.32
Mahle Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Except Cold Climate Version
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Engine Designation
2007 - Mini Cooper Manual W10B16A

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

mazda mpv mini van wont start after problem

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From jflowersci on mazda mpv mini van wont start after problem

My 1992 mazda mpv v6 3.0 fuel injection and it just developed a problem. I make it a point to use Marathon gas which supposedly carries some stp gas additive it. I try keep it a 1/2 full or a little less. So recently after putting some gas in I also added a half a container of the small stp gas additive. When driving home I saw a clear patch of road and decided to punch the accelerator to try to clean out the system. My car accelerated and it took all took quite a bit to stop it. Even after pulling over and turning off the key and restarting it it raced. It was reving but never redlined.

Then after a couple of restarts it would only go very, very slow and I nursed it home driving no more than say 25 mph. Now I can't even start it and it seems like it's not receiving gas.
Is this a fuel problem or a transmission problem? I seen recently people driving older cars were having problems because of the gasoline and it was causing repair problems.
Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Personal info deleted

Response From Discretesignals

Trying to think where you should start with this...hmmm.

Have you inspected the throttle body and throttle cable just to be sure you don't have a sticking throttle valve?

If the throttle is closed and doesn't stick open, your next order of business would be to spray some starting fluid into the engine to see if it will run on spray. You can also use propane if it is available. If it runs on spray, you should check fuel pressure. You'll have to plumb a gauge between the fuel filter and rail. It should be around 31-38 psi with 18-22 inches of vacuum on the fuel pressure regulator and 38-46psi with no vacuum on the fuel pressure regulator.

You can also check to see if there are any trouble codes stored in the engine controller. Near the left front fender in the engine bay there is a single wire green connector. With the ignition off, jump the green connector to ground. Turn the ignition on and the MIL lamp with flash any trouble codes stored. If the MIL light goes on and then stays off, there are no codes stored. The codes are two digit.

Let us know how you make out.

Response From jflowersci Top Rated Answer

Thank you very much for replying.

Unfortunately I am at a loss for most of the things you prescribed. Although I have some mechanical aptitude and my experience it is rather limited. I'm good for changing the air filter, the distributer cap and rotor and maybe a few smaller obvious items.

I have checked what I believe to be the throttle inside the engine compartment, a small cabled (size of a wire) semicircular device that I pulled by hand. It worked easily without hangup. I later sprayed it with wd 40 for good measure.

I have sprayed starting fluid and cleaner done the throat of my previous carburated vehicles but I'm at a loss where to spray fluid in the Fuel injection. Do you spray it down the plastic tunnel after the air filter?

As for the codes I have no reader and don't know what a mil is nor do I have access to a fuel pressure guage and wouldn't know where to hook it up anyway.

I decided to change the fuel filter as it seemed a logical thing to do and shouldn't hurt. I question if the fuel additives eat away at what may be paper filters. I also realize that this will introduce air into the fuel line. I assume this is not a big issue and perhaps this is where the starting fluid may come in handy. It's a bit hard to access the bottom line as it comes out of the filter so it will have to be cut and I can connect it to some additional line. I have not been able to acertain if the botton line is 5/16 or 3/8 inch. Neither the car parts store nor local Mazda dealer could tell me. I bought a foot of both. It's only 1/16 of a inch circumfrence difference. Would this be enough to make a big difference in performance?

Thank you again for the help. Any additional thoughts are appreciated.

Response From re-tired

Do not cut your fuel line . I would recommend that you take your vehicle to a garage and have it checked . You were smart enough to admit your lack of formal mechanics training. Follow thru and git to a shop .

Are used Volkswagen Golf and Jetta TDIs reliable? Relatively cheap to maintain?

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From Lovamelin on Are used Volkswagen Golf and Jetta TDIs reliable? Relatively cheap to maintain?

I'm not sure this is exactly the right place to post this but I wanted to get some general feedback from mechanics. Since you guys fix and repair cars so often I imagine you have a good notion on cost of ownership and reliability in general on most vehicles.

That said I'm looking at a used Golf or Jetta TDI due to their great mileage and peppy performance (things that usually aren't paired together). But a lot of times when I look at ads for used vehicles it seems people have just replaced or repaired a multitude of things. From all of the research and reading I've done I get the feeling that unless you are doing the regular scheduled maintenance on these cars that they can go down hill quickly. That doesn't sound the most reliable to me not to mention the maintenance can sometimes be very costly.

Compare this to my 2007 Honda Civic that costs me roughly 300 dollars a year to maintain and runs like a top every day. This includes things like wipers, oil changes, fluids, air filter, etc. There are occasional expenses like brakes and tires but these happen more on a 2-3 year basis.

Anyways my concern basically is are these cars really all that reliable? It sounds like they can be if you are willing to put a regular, and significant, amount of money in them. As a note I do know that pre 2006 models tend to have electric issues and I think 2004 is the ones with the bad engine. So I would of course try to avoid these or buy one that has these things already fixed. Thanks guys!

Response From Hammer Time

You will be shocked to see what it costs to repair those cars and how few people actually know what they're doing when it comes to repairing them. I would stick with a Honda or Toyota.

Response From Lovamelin

Yeah...sigh. I also feel like it will limit my options on who to take it to. I refuse to go to dealerships for repairs since they pretty much gouge you every time unless you're still under your warranty. But I doubt my current mechanic would be very good on VWs. He could probably do the basics but I would doubt his ability to do more complicated things. That said there seems to always be import or VW experts who do nothing but work German cars. They're probably reliable but I wonder if they're expensive too...

Also it seems like a lot of VW owners with TDIs are gearheads who do their own repairs. As such their cost is greatly reduced not to mention they probably enjoy doing the work to a certain degree.

Response From Hammer Time

You DO realize that is a diesel, right?

Response From Lovamelin

Oh yeah. Diesel doesn't bother me at all. A bit more costly for gas but that's far outweighed by the incredible mileage.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a comment: You do realize how fast a few extra MPGs value is lost when a repair cost your right arm vs a simpler engine? Your money,

T

Response From Lovamelin

Agreed. That's why I'm trying to see if I'm right about cost of maintenance. If people come back to me and tell me that cost of repairs isn't as bad as I thought then the mielage savings is totally worth it. But I totally agree if all those savings are eaten up by repairs and expensive maintenance then I won't buy a TDI. Wish I had the money to buy one of the newer ones as this would probably reduce the cost of maintenance. Thanks for the comment though.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's just my opinion that the insane yearning for the best MPGs bites you in repair later making more mainstream cars LESS expensive to operate in the long run. If some strange $1,000 buck issue comes along there goes about any saving for the life of the car even with high fuel prices.

Hammer already said and I agree the more common cars mentioned should be the best for overall economy in the long run, that all just my thought on it,

T

Response From Lovamelin

Yeah I don't disagree with that. I don't really understand why better MPG cars have to be more complicated though. This is becoming less the case as many mainstream cars from Ford, Chevy, Honda, Toyota, etc are increasingly hitting the 40mpg mark since fuel economy is a major selling point these days. But if you go back just 10 years your options for really great mileage about 35mpg is fairly limited.

Also part of the reason I'm looking for a new car is not just mileage. I'm dissatisfied with my Nissan Versa. Nissan really barebones you on any amenities (mine didn't even have cruise control initially) and the car just feels so bland to me, I don't enjoy it and feel like I settled. So I'm trying to find something that's a bit of a step up features wise and I figure if I'm going to spend money on a new car then I'd like to get some other things along with that like better mileage, better performance, etc.

My wife bought a Mazda 3 hatchback and it's Grand Touring edition. We both really like it and I feel like it's a lot of bang for your buck amenities wise and performance. So I'm kind of looking for something like that but with better mileage.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Everything is more complicated some are just more expensive. If you hate a car that ends that. It just amuses me with say some hybrids how much more $$ you pay for the fuel savings and if you calculate it some have to last 400,000 miles vs one that isn't to break even and almost nobody sees that kind of life out of a car.

It confused me. Paying to save??!! Just funny but it's true. If you are righteous about saving fuel do your thing. Ride a bike. Not fair because personally I don't put on enough miles for fuel to bother me at all if it was $10 bucks a gallon.

Factor costs up front, expected maintenance which is more for many and if you like the thing at all. EPA has a site listing current MPG ratings for each vehicle out there and factors your driving habits/situation.

You can get a car so small you may not fit in it too. Passengers, cargo needs and so on. Laugh, for Winter I drive a truck that's a real pig locally many low speed limits and stop and go or plain sitting but so what for driving less than 50 miles a week it wouldn't matter. Then some drive 30-40K a year and it starts to really hurt.

A fav for overall utility for a car is a Corolla for example. Euro cars seem more expensive to fix or even maintain all around but if you love it go for it. Take in all the factors and your budget is about all I can say??

T

Response From Lovamelin

Yeah I've done a ton of different research so I know what's available and most of the pros and cons. I just wanted to reach out to mechanics about the TDI vehicles because if you go to a TDI community they're all big proponents but they're obviously biased so I wanted more objective input.

I use the EPA site all the time as well. I am considering the initial costs of ownership now that's why I'm asking this question to a couple mechanics because I could see the writing on the wall if I bought a TDI and I ended up loving it but I also ended up paying for it negating any fuel savings so I just wanted to make sure my fears of their reliability and cost of maintenance was substantiated or not. It appears my fears are substantiated.

All of that said there are definitely ways to save money when getting your car worked on. So I may do some calling around to get some estimates and see what some import shops or even just a guy who does solely imports out of his house would charge me for different things.

Would you guys say working on VWs or German cars in general is a special skill set? I know you kind of inferred that in the first reply but I guess I'm wondering how many mechanics out there would be able to work on my vehicle adequately. We'll see, the hunt continues :)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You said you weren't happy with a Versa. Was it throwing surprise repairs at you or just didn't like it? Buying a car which is a huge expense for most people is hard. If you buy new and the dang thing hurts your back (known several folks) you get killed trading for another something.

The best way to double your MPGs is to always drive with one other person and split the cost. Some folks really like the feel and road handling of the Euro cars and that was most important to them.

Too big if parking is a problem and so on. So much to think about. If you pound the miles on will it last as well. Tough calculation but break it all down do cost per mile you expect to own it - all costs. What will it be worth when ready again for another which is a guess but it counts. Is crash safety most important - yikes some folks that's the only factor.

Most newer/new cars have pretty good expected known maintenance costs for the first 60K or so. Not all that much if no surprises. All things have to fit. Personally I've never owned a new car out of countless cars and my worst fear it if I did that I might hate the thing and lose a fortune to get out of it for another something vs used you don't take a huge hit unless you bought a real mess by mistake.

Then there's lease vs own also. It a big deal choosing what's best for you,

T

Response From Lovamelin

I'm not interested in a Corolla or Camry. Neither gets the desired mileage although Corolla is at least in the wheel house.

I'm not happy with my Versa because of lackluster of a vehicle it is. What I do like about is good mileage (averages 30-32) and it's reliability. Not really much of any unexpected expenses with it honestly. Just the typical work that needs done after having it for awhile.

I do really like the handling of european cars so that is part of it. I guess I am one of those people who really wants to like their car or love it and with the Versa I don't. It just has no features, it's stark, it feels cheap in many ways, aside from mechanics it's just not that great. I don't hate my car I just don't like it. I would like a few things that are available in most cars today like ABS, Aux in or USB or something, heated mirrors, leather seats, possibly heated seats, temperature, etc. I don't need all of these things but things that I would consider common in most entry level sedans today are remarkably missing from my vehicle. And I've found driving a car with a 1.8 engine while economical isn't very exciting some time. I am a gas miser but every once in awhile it's fun to just let loose and have some fun with it, something that's not all that possible in my pokey lil 1.8L engine.

I guess I'll just keep my eyes peeled and consider to weigh my options. I'll never lease, you just get fleeced. It's just like renting an apartment, you have nothing to show for all the money you just paid, and the "offer" you get to buy your car is a joke.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yikes, your laundry list of cheap, high MPG, power, low cost maintenance with some creature comfort features doesn't exist. Something has to give and probably costs. Maybe someday but so far nobody makes a car that morphs to your desires on demand,

T

Response From Lovamelin Top Rated Answer

Oh it exists. I'm willing to spend a bit more this time around instead of going super budget oriented last time. I got a great deal on my Versa but I always buy used. There are a few cars that fulfill my criteria that are within my price range. I feel like the TDIs fall in this range, although my only possible flag could be maintenance costs, but it checks all other boxes, I looked at the Mini Coopers, which actually checks all boxes but the interior is atrocious so that got checked off the list. Aside from that there are some other options like possibly a newer Scion xD, Honda Fit, maybe even a newer Ford Fiesta or Hyundai Accent. I haven't really looked into the last two yet but if their prices are right (they have low retail starting prices, so used might be pretty decent). So there are several options I feel but none of them check every box, and that's fine it would be unreasonable to think I get my dream car that checks every box unless I want to spend some major money. But who knows I might happen upon the deal of a life time too :) I'm not in a rush, I'm a patient and pragmatic buyer.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If you already like the Jetta than go for it and if it cost more so be it. Folks pay all the time for what they like and put up with higher costs. Try a BMW and others for costs! People love them and put up with it.

At least now you've allowed more bucks at this so you have some wiggle room. All features at once you don't, T

Response From GC

Im with Tom, buy a Corolla. I had a 2010 and loved it. Most places work on them if you need something done, but mine didnt need a thing over the couple years I had it. If you want something a bit nicer, a Camry is a bit bigger and a step up. Most popular car in US if I remember right. I know people who have had Jetta TDIs that got 250k with just maintenance, no repairs, but if something goes, it can cost. Always a crap shoot with vehicles any which way