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2002 Chevrolet Express 3500 Air Filter 8 Cyl 5.7L Mahle

P311-59F296D    W0133-1966907  New

Qty:
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Mahle Air Filter
Brand: Mahle
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Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - Chevrolet Express 3500 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Full
2002 Chevrolet Express 3500 Air Filter 8 Cyl 5.7L Full

P311-140E25C    W0133-1966907  New

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Full Air Filter
Brand: Full
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2002 - Chevrolet Express 3500 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Mahle
2016 Chevrolet Cruze Limited Air Filter 4 Cyl 1.4L Mahle

P311-474EC23    W0133-1917204  New

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Mahle Air Filter
Brand: Mahle
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2016 - Chevrolet Cruze Limited L 4 Cyl 1.4L 83 1364
ACDelco
2016 Chevrolet Cruze Limited Air Filter 4 Cyl 1.4L ACDelco

P311-0B9BCFD    W0133-1917204  New

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  • Professional
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2016 - Chevrolet Cruze Limited L 4 Cyl 1.4L 83 1364
ACDelco
2017 Chevrolet Traverse Air Filter ACDelco

P311-102F491    W0133-1840628  New

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2017 - Chevrolet Traverse
ACDelco
2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Classic Air Filter ACDelco

P311-30FA63A    W0133-1968124  New

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ACDelco Air Filter
  • Professional
  • with High Capacity Air Cleaner (RPO K47)
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2007 - Chevrolet Silverado 1500 HD Classic
ACDelco
2016 Chevrolet Tahoe Air Filter ACDelco

P311-30FA63A    W0133-1968124  New

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2016 - Chevrolet Tahoe
Full
2008 Chevrolet Malibu Air Filter 6 Cyl 3.6L Full

P311-34F3E64    W0133-1631973  New

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Full Air Filter
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2008 - Chevrolet Malibu V 6 Cyl 3.6L 217 3564
ACDelco
2016 Chevrolet Equinox Air Filter ACDelco

P311-435EDE7    W0133-2043157  New

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ACDelco Air Filter
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2016 - Chevrolet Equinox
ACDelco
1987 Chevrolet R30 Air Filter 8 Cyl 7.4L ACDelco

P311-0EC8AB6    W0133-1840605  New

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ACDelco Air Filter
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1987 - Chevrolet R30 FI V 8 Cyl 7.4L 454 -
ACDelco
1985 Chevrolet P30 Air Filter 8 Cyl 7.4L ACDelco

P311-0EC8AB6    W0133-1840605  New

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ACDelco Air Filter
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1985 - Chevrolet P30 V 8 Cyl 7.4L 454 -
ACDelco
1994 Chevrolet C1500 Suburban Air Filter ACDelco

P311-0EC8AB6    W0133-1840605  New

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ACDelco Air Filter
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1994 - Chevrolet C1500 Suburban
ACDelco
1986 Chevrolet C20 Suburban Air Filter 8 Cyl 7.4L ACDelco

P311-0EC8AB6    W0133-1840605  New

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ACDelco Air Filter
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  • Tall Filter (3-1/2")
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1986 - Chevrolet C20 Suburban V 8 Cyl 7.4L 454 -
NPN
2016 Chevrolet Cruze Limited Air Filter 4 Cyl 1.4L NPN

P311-4F5C7F2    W0133-1917204  New

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NPN Air Filter
Brand: NPN
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Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2016 - Chevrolet Cruze Limited L 4 Cyl 1.4L 83 1364
Full
2000 Chevrolet S10 Air Filter 4 Cyl 2.2L Full

P311-0C33D12    W0133-1916192  New

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$23.75
Full Air Filter
Brand: Full
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2000 - Chevrolet S10 GAS L 4 Cyl 2.2L 134 2190
Full
2000 Chevrolet S10 Air Filter 6 Cyl 4.3L Full

P311-0C33D12    W0133-1916192  New

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Full Air Filter
  • Standard Duty
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2000 - Chevrolet S10 GAS V 6 Cyl 4.3L 262 -
ACDelco
2018 Chevrolet Malibu Air Filter 4 Cyl 1.8L ACDelco

P311-196BCA5    W0133-2316753  New

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ACDelco Air Filter
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Chevrolet Malibu L 4 Cyl 1.8L 110 1796
ACDelco
1999 Chevrolet K1500 Suburban Air Filter ACDelco

P311-2D0D850    W0133-1689037  New

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$41.16
ACDelco Air Filter
  • Professional
  • Standard Duty
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
1999 - Chevrolet K1500 Suburban
ACDelco
1999 Chevrolet K1500 Suburban Air Filter ACDelco - Durapack pack of 6

P311-2D0D850    W0133-1689037  New

Qty:
$41.16
ACDelco Air Filter
  • Professional
  • Standard Duty
  • Durapack pack of 6
  • This Product Must be Purchased in Quantities of : 6
    • You must purchase this item in multiples of 6. Your order will be delayed and possibly canceled if another amount is specified.
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
1999 - Chevrolet K1500 Suburban
ACDelco
1997 Chevrolet C3500 Air Filter 8 Cyl 6.5L ACDelco - Durapack pack of 6

P311-2D0D850    W0133-1689037  New

Qty:
$41.16
ACDelco Air Filter
  • Professional
  • Durapack pack of 6
  • This Product Must be Purchased in Quantities of : 6
    • You must purchase this item in multiples of 6. Your order will be delayed and possibly canceled if another amount is specified.
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Chevrolet C3500 V 8 Cyl 6.5L 395 -

Latest Chevrolet Repair and Air Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1997 Chevrolet 1500, 305 V-8, fuel problems

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From CamminSSmaro on 1997 Chevrolet 1500, 305 V-8, fuel problems

I have a 1997 Chevrolet 1500 Silverado, Sometimes it runs great, then all of a sudden it try's to stall and don't want to take gas, anymore. Then the next time i drive it, it might run fine again. It does it all the time, Its very annoying. The truck has 140, 000 miles, Spark plugs, re-placed fuel filter, air filter good. The throttle body is smut-ed up pretty bad, when i look down into it. Any ideas would be appreciated. Can you please help me.

Response From Hammer Time

I have deleted all your duplicates. Please stay with one thread.

Response From CamminSSmaro

OK, Sorry.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Cammin; Agree with RT. Two important things to check: Fuel pressure (should be 60psi) and fuel filter. Do you have a check engine light illuminated when the engine is running?

Response From re-tired

When have you last done the basics; air and fuel filter, plugs wires , cap and wires, inspection of vac hoses?

chevrolet trailbalzer, banged, new noise

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From someguy214 on chevrolet trailbalzer, banged, new noise

2002
Chevrolet
trailblazer
4.2 L vortec iL6 24valve
115,000 miles
when leaving work with temps below 0 I started my trailblazer and let it sit for say 2 min ( I used my remote start so it was running for a little bit before I got to it.) got in and checked the gauges as usual when its below 0 and they looked fine. backed out and heard/felt a bang. thought I might have hit the car next to me but I was 5 feet away from it. figured the noise was ice falling off from underneath that I ran over.

got to the first red light I felt a vibration in the gas peddle, which is normal in the cold when I start driving at first. gauges still fine.

got to another light about a mile down the road, the vibration in the gas peddle got my attention and I turned down my heat and heard this awful noise coming from the engine. gauges still normal.

this is not my video or car but this is the noise it makes. however when mine makes this noise it does not seem to be as consistent in timing, it's more random. it is also louder, I got home and my parents came outside to see what in the world was happening.

link deleted ........................ not allowed FORUM RULES

while driving I noticed at certain rpms (low ones seeing as how I didn't want to go higher) the noise would sometimes slow and stop then return as I left off the gas. no change in engine performance otherwise. exhaust sounds the same.

here are the things that have already been replaced / cleaned in the engine:

replaced:
belt tensioner pulley
belt tensioner (bearing on the other side)
went through 3 belts
6 sparks plugs (bosch platinum 4 pin)
oil cooler lines
power steering lines
air intake (by choice, it gives better gas millage)

cleaned:
throttle body
air intake
fuel injectors ( by local shop )

115,000 miles

the video says its a bad rod bearing but I like to believe its not haha.
any ideas?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Some questions and comments: ZERO is cold enough of course. Handy as it is I don't like starting a vehicle unattended.


I'd check what was already done. Belt(s) pulleys new or not may have failed already.


What was cleaned and how? Cleaning an engine if that's what you meant is a bad idea and worse if cold out.


The video of someone else's problem isn't helping for yours.


Engine need those plugs taken out and OE spec and brand put in. If engine is misfiring bad enough causing noises it should have thrown a code.


Issues with ice up to icicles that can touch ground from heated engine when parked and snow or ice was on vehicle should quit right away or could really break something if in the wrong places and only looking.


This noise continued so my guess is something broke,


T

Response From Discretesignals

Need a link to the video of your vehicle, so we can hear what it sounds like.

Response From someguy214

oh all the parts that were installed and cleaned were not installed to try to fix the noise. I made that list just to give as much info as possible. all of those parts and cleanings were installed/completed above 60 degrees F. additionally I have told 3 mechanics about the spark plugs I installed and they do like OEM parts but they were fine with them.


I had a suggestion elsewhere that it might be the flex plate dragging or contacting something. will have a look at that soon.


posting a video of my own will take a while, very little time to spare atm.


also thank you for the responses so far.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This post not much help just some notes and questions: I live this weather and it's routine for temps alone with or without a wild assortment of types of snow. Light fluff to crushed ice or even chunks if already plowed can harden plenty to break parts.


* Are you familiar with the conditions or is this all new to you?
* Rubber anything can get very hard. Oils anywhere thicker even inside shocks and struts. You can get a creek or harmless sound when first moved but it goes away - yours didn't apparently.


* Plastics at some point and type get brittle and crack or break.


? What viscosity oil are you using? It matters!


T

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

reading the post I have some questions, thoughts.

I see BOSCH plugs amd a air filter something - these are problematic - (polite for POS). anything else that is not OEM?

You did NOT mention engine codes- or if the CEL works.... a scan is a place to start.

I am suspecting this vehicle is not babied. you cancheck oil - and particles in oil, pull dip stick they will appear as metal flake - a silver paint look in oil.... what is pressure,gauge the same reading ?

Are you familiar with using a dowel, screwdriver, to help locate source of sound- engine top. bbottom, front rear etc?

Response From DanD

I agree with everyone here, on using OE ignition; but I don't think this is a plug issue. There's no mention of a check engine light and they have said it runs fine.
They did say that the noise goes away sometimes and comes back when slowing down.
So with that I'm guessing it might be a broken starter drive return spring. When accelerating the gear will be pushed back away from the flywheel. When braking the drive will slide up against the flywheel and make enough noise to scare anyone.
The first time I ran into this was with a front wheel drive GM. It would only make this erratic scrapping shrieking sound on right turns. Wasn't that a crazy time diagnosing. LOL
We found it by letting the vehicle idle and 4 guys rocking the car as hard as we could from side to side.
Every time the right side was higher then the left we got the noise. Pulled the inspection cover and there was the drive happily siding back and forth on the armature shaft.

Dan.

Response From someguy214

DanD described what happens with the noise perfectly.


here is some info you guys wanted:


K&N cold air intake


I use a mechanics stethoscope to locate any noise sources - it's how I found the two bad belt tensioner bearings
not familiar with the dowel rod and screwdriver method
checked the oil, full, no strange color or metal shrapnel


the vehicle was previously ( according to the dealership ) driven by a soccer mom, I can honestly say I don't drive like a maniac either, especially in this cold weather recently. I try to keep to low rpms with this cold weather we have been having.


no warning lights what so ever on the dash
I am going to ask my uncle tomorrow who has been a mechanic for 30+ years fixing equipment for fire/police/ambulance departments. He has a code reader to see if anything is up.


I know you guys are really on about those spark plugs but I have had them in for 3.5 years and have had no issue with them, includes a trip to Florida (no stops except to eat and restroom), and 2 trips to North Carolina ( also no stops except to eat ). additionally if the plugs were misfiring or had a bent pin I would have to think the engine would run rough, very rough. I have not turned it on since the noise started but performance was not affected.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I always like Dan's thinking. Yes the what I'll call "piggy back" solenoid and starter drive very well could even stick and not retract far enough or perhaps at all would really make a wild noise and probably wreck the ring gear also called flywheel gear.


They are spring loaded to retract and lubed. Lube could be like gum? If retracting spring plain broke then it would care much anymore about temperatures and stay doing it.


That listening with a rod thing for noises/bearings is plain dangerous. I do it and so far haven't shot a 30" screwdriver thru the side of my head touching a moving part improperly. Use a stethoscope and save the dangerous stuff/tricks/shortcuts for those aware of the risks IMO.


If that's it you could possibly see it thru inspection plate or take starter out to check that out,


T

Response From someguy214

oil coolant line came loose and was caught by the radiator fan


caused a smell so will watch to make sure the clutch in the fan is still good.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - you found the reason. Fix that now. Is that for engine oil, transmission fluid or what? Check that level NOW or all of them.


Fan/fan clutch. Who knows but the fan blades if they were (sure seems like it) touching something need to be very carefully inspected or just replaced. If those are out of balance or damaged that would be the next problem down the road. If clutch driven clutch may be fine but hurt by imbalance. Domino effect of problems possible from one thing that caused it. Seems you are early so try to limit the possible troubles right now.


? What broke that allowed lines to move? Fix that and know they can't just rub on things where held or with each other along their route,


T

Response From Hammer Time

That's a very expensive electronic fan clutch.

Response From someguy214

some brackets broke from rust. a quick zip tie for now holds it back enough to not hit the fan.


fan is fine

Response From kev2

thats great news- thanks for the follow up.

My favorite easy and inexpensive

Response From Hammer Time

I'm going to close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Any Mod can reopen it upon request.

Response From Hammer Time

Bosch plugs cannot be used in that vehicle. They will not run correctly and cause numerous problems. Use only Delco in that engine.

fuel injector

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on fuel injector

My 1991Chevrolet S10 2.8 lt, has not been running well for a while now and what i have learned is that one of the neutral wires going to one of the injectors, is not working right. Can i just ground it to the fire wall?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

mata; This is a TBI type? There is a metal spacer between the air filter and the TBI. It is common for the wires going to the injectors to get 'pinched' in between the spacer and the injector. The resistance value for the injectors is 1.3 ohms.

Response From Guest

Thanks, i did see that the injector that was failing was pinched, so i bought the connector with the pig tal, amd replaced it but it still does the same. the problem seems to be futher down the line, but i am not sure if i can mess with the harnes. where dose that wire connect to?

Response From Hammer Time

What makes you think that your even looking in the right area? Do you have some reason to believe you have an injector trigger problem? You don't seem to have used a noid light to do this.

Response From Guest

i know because the other injector works, and i can see that the other does not.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Also, what was the resistance value?

Response From Guest

havent had a chance get a value, but when i swap the connectors the other would start acting up and the other would work fine.

Response From Hammer Time

That tell you the injectors themselves are not the problem. Now test for power at one side of each injector plug with the key on.

Response From Guest

When i tested for power on the connector with the key on, i did not get a reading. when i turn on the truck i got 14 on both sides. i keep getting the same answer that its your engiene control computer, but could it be the ground, and where is that located at? I also am having a hard time find a computer that is the same too.

Response From Hammer Time

I don't know where your getting that answer from. You haven't finished testing the circuit yet.

You now need to check the resistance of both injectors to see if one could have damaged the computer and then you have to test the continuity of that wire back to the computer.

Response From Hammer Time

Try swapping the plugs to the other injector first and see if the problem follows. Test to make sure you have constant power to one side of each injector.

Response From Hammer Time

No, definitely not. If by "neutral", you mean the ground side, that is the way the computer actually operates the injector. Grounding it would would simply open it all the time and flood the engine.

You need to diagnose why you have no injector pulse if you really don't.

Response From Guest

I guess you mean that i would have to take it in to get check, but what it does is, it will lose power on and off. i don't think its a wire that is messed up becouse when i do go throw a bumpy road it wont do it, and visa versa. it just seems to switch on and off when i drive it or it is standing still.
i have already replaced both injectors,

Engine turns over but doesn't start

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Wolf_Lord on Engine turns over but doesn't start

Year of vehicle: 2001
Make of vehicle (Ford/ Chevrolet) Kia
Model of vehicle ( Taurus/ Cavalier) Sephia
Engine size (2.0/ 5.7) 4 cylinder
Mileage/Kilometers 90905

Here's the problem. When I try to start the car, the engine turns but it won't start. Both the Check Engine and Low Oil lights come on. However, I've checked the oil levels 3 times and the levels are fine, right near full. There seems to be no leaks. I've checked the air filter to make sure it wasn't flooded and that's fine. The engine isn't making any strange noises when it's turning over. I'm not a car expert, and I looked through the first thread to see if there was any answers with no avail. What are the possible problems that could be causing this so I can look into those areas specifically?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Dash lights would be on as "bulb checks" when cranking so that's inconclusive for the moment.

Air filter probably doesn't show evidence of flooding.

Need to know if it LACKS fuel or spark - perhaps both as a beginning. Do you know WHEN the timing belt was replaced last?

T

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Wolf; You're going to need to check for spark and fuel. That's the two main pre-requisites. This particular motor has a history of breaking timing belts. If it seems that the engine cranks over faster than normal, you may be looking at catastrophic damage. A little more diagnostics will be required. Sorry.

1993 ford ranger question please help !!!

Showing 2 out of 13 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From fokes123 on 1993 ford ranger question please help !!!

I have a 1993 ford ranger 2.3 and i am wondering if i can fit the k&n 57 Series FIPK cold air intake. The oldest year they have is 1995 ranger 2.3 and i am wondering if it would fit my 93 ranger. Also just to make sure with this k&n cold air intake, it would pass smog and be street legal? Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

Yep, that cold air intake is just a waste of money.

Response From Discretesignals

Save yourself some money and make your own custom cold air intake.


Response From Hammer Time

I don't know how they call these things COLD air intakes when they pull in the superheated air from under the hood. Just a way to take your money.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - went a bit nuts but it's a serious misleading as bad as any Sham-Wow infomercial.
People: Gas/fuel doesn't like COLD air dag nabbit! If too cold it would never atomize (evaporate) to be able to work in time. All sorts of efforts are to warm air not cool it up to putting strong electric heaters under throttle body or carbs then AND run total exhaust heat as well so evaporating fuel (gets cold just doing that like sweat on your skin) can even ice up so it's making itself cold anyway and has to be corrected or you'd just flood out.


No clue how these scams get out there and not pulled from the market place instantly?


True: Cold air has more density (heavier) than warm air - Google out what a hot air balloon is lifted by


The end all is if any of these tricks worked at all or had any benefit it would be designed into the engines to begin with.


This and a ton of bullcrap sells so they keep making it. If it floats your boat go for it but don't complain when it's all worse than before you messed with it,


T

Response From fokes123

Thanks for all the help guys..... Dont really need your guys opinions on them i really didnt ask. You guys seemed to think i did but you all maged not to answer my question and insted just go on a rant about them. This was a waste of time IMO.....looks like I'll have to take this to a better forum.

Response From Hammer Time

No problem, We won't miss you.

Response From fokes123

Its funny because on your quote it says that you help answer questions but you didnt do jack shit and managed just to bag on me. Nice way to welcome new member on the forum. This is extremely dissapointing

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Good information Tom. Like they say, K&N filters are really only good for filtering out rocks...lol. GM came out with a TSB a while back concerning those filters and how they were causing MAF issues. GM stated they wouldn't honor damage done by using those filters. K and N went bananas over that one.

SERVICE - ALL BUICK, CADILLAC, CHEVROLET, GMC TRUCK, ISUZU, OLDSMOBILE, PONTIAC AND HUMMER DEALERS


Subject: A/T Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or SES Light On as a Result of the Installation of an Aftermarket Reusable, Excessively Oiled Air Filter -- 2004 and Prior Cars and Lt Duty Trucks and 2003-2004 HUMMER H2
Message #: VSS20040056

Corporate Bulletin Number 04-07-30-013 will be available in SI on March 18, 2004.

Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon (SES)
Light On as a Result of the Installation of an Aftermarket Reusable, Excessively Oiled Air Filter

Models: 2004 and All Prior Cars and Light Duty Trucks
2003-2004 HUMMER H2

DO THIS
First, Inspect the vehicle for a reusable aftermarket excessively oiled air filter

DON'T DO THIS
DO NOT repair under warranty if concerns result from the use of a reusable aftermarket oiled air filter.

The installation of an aftermarket reusable, oiled air filter may result in:

1. Service Engine Soon (SES) Light On

2. Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)

3. Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range

The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.

When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an aftermarket reusable, excessively oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared to a like vehicle with a OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the concern.

Transmission or engine driveability concerns that are the result of the installation of an aftermarket reusable, excessively oiled air filter are not considered to be warrantable repair items.



Have you attempted to contact the manufacture to see if that would fit on your truck? As for passing emissions as long as it doesn't disturb how the air flows through the MAF sensor, you should be alright. To confirm, you should check the laws in your state concerning that.

This really is an automotive repair website dealing with factory manufacture designed vehicles and systems and how to troubleshoot and repair those systems. When you start getting into the realm of modifications and changes to the manufacture's intended design, you may not get good answers.

One good suggestion is to keep the old air intake ducting system just in case you run into issues or you want to sell the vehicle later.

Response From Hammer Time

This guy is just sucked in by all the hype nonsense and bogus claims.

He's spouted off long enough. Time to close this.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry for the harsh approach to what really should be a no brainer and no offence - the advertising is convincing with stuff but real results are so disappointing and costly to buy then don't work and costly to put back to what works!


K&N actually has a competitor for this market that's worse! Look up the Uban lore and myths of assorted products. Some you'll find great reviews but miss fine print that it isn't really tested and don't discuss it can also damage things for using them! Guess the budget for something is better spent not telling you that up front.


Makes this and other magic-in-a-can products a strong seller for the unwary. It's my/our fault to some degree that it's so clearly corrupted to sell this junk it gets taken out on the buyer who trusts the claims.
Graphs probably wont show below and I wont go looking for ones that will but if you really look into results of products of many assorted things never mind a vehicle that took mega thousands of hours to make and design as best as possible or loses a sale of a vehicle when new to another. It's suicide for a company to have an unhappy new vehicle buyer then the icing on the cake is nobody really want them used so really a disaster.


On just this air intake search I just did came up with OE air filter results done by real PPM of catching dirt and the CFM impact of air flowing thru filters and what loss would be expected at they were part dirty vs another. BTW in my hunt AC Delco came out on top of most testing! OE replacement stuff no alterations just quality of the product.


Changing to cold air just is beyond thinking it thru IMO and experience. Used to back when turn a round lid to an air filter upside down and get a neat carb/air intake roar with a load that did nothing but make noise and trash the filter fast but cost nothing and just put it back on properly was all you had to do so didn't do much harm short of getting a dirty air filter sooner and defeat WARM AIR pick up for cold starts and engine's initial time before whole engine warmed up and ran it's best. Do that stupid trick in the dead of Winter you would have real problems.


End all is the change you seek for whatever claimed benefit doesn't work and costs to do it then undo it when you find out. We really (or I was) were trying to warn you of a known failed idea not pick on you at all and did come out bit harsh. Sorry for that.


Try it if you want to find out for yourself. Measure before and after real changes yourself and then if you complain to this company bet you wont even get your money back!


Good luck. We really are all volunteering time and years of experience for that good no other motivation at this site,


Tom
Graph if it shows or search it out...........

Accumulative Gain:
“Accumulative Gain” is the total amount of dirt that passed through the filter during the test.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

They even advertise!

With honesty!


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

IMO all that is junk you'll be removing later - don't even if it still runs well enough for an inspection it's of no use at all just costly,


T