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Mann-Filter
2007 BMW Alpina B7 Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-44EF6FE    W0133-1902020  New

Qty:
$40.83
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mann-Filter
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Vehicle
2007 - BMW Alpina B7
Mann-Filter
2004 BMW 525i Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-4807DC0    W0133-1631521  New

Qty:
$34.88
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mann-Filter
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Vehicle
2004 - BMW 525i
Hengst
2006 BMW 325i Air Filter Hengst

P311-26C1EED    W0133-1779508  New

Qty:
$42.60
Hengst Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Hengst
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Vehicle
2006 - BMW 325i
Mann-Filter
2006 BMW 325i Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-15077E2    W0133-1779508  New

Qty:
$43.60
Mann-Filter Air Filter
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Brand: Mann-Filter
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Vehicle
2006 - BMW 325i
Hengst
2012 BMW 128i Air Filter Hengst

P311-26C1EED    W0133-1779508  New

Qty:
$42.60
Hengst Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Factory Intake
Brand: Hengst
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Vehicle
2012 - BMW 128i
Mann-Filter
2012 BMW 128i Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-15077E2    W0133-1779508  New

Qty:
$43.60
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Factory Intake
Brand: Mann-Filter
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2012 - BMW 128i
Mahle
2007 BMW X3 Air Filter Mahle

P311-5DC835F    W0133-1781733  New

Qty:
$30.93
Mahle Air Filter
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Brand: Mahle
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Vehicle
2007 - BMW X3
Mahle
2006 BMW 750i Air Filter Mahle

P311-034EA2A    W0133-1822156  New

Qty:
$48.70
Mahle Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 09/01/2006-
Brand: Mahle
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Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2006 - BMW 750i Fr:09-01-06
Mahle
2007 BMW 750i Air Filter Mahle

P311-034EA2A    W0133-1822156  New

Qty:
$48.70
Mahle Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mahle
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Vehicle
2007 - BMW 750i
Hengst
2008 BMW X5 Air Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L Hengst

P311-1746E4C    W0133-1792132  New

Qty:
$34.33
Hengst Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Hengst
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Vehicle Block CC CID
2008 - BMW X5 L 2996 -
Mann-Filter
2008 BMW X5 Air Filter 8 Cyl 4.8L Mann-Filter

P311-5800B6C    W0133-1792134  New

Qty:
$46.56
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Left
Brand: Mann-Filter
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Vehicle Block CC CID
2008 - BMW X5 V 4837 -
Mann-Filter
2010 BMW X5 Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-5800B6C    W0133-1792134  New

Qty:
$46.56
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Driver Side
Brand: Mann-Filter
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Vehicle Engine Designation
2010 - BMW X5 N62B48B
Mann-Filter
2007 BMW X5 Air Filter 8 Cyl 4.8L Mann-Filter

P311-5800B6C    W0133-1792134  New

Qty:
$46.56
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mann-Filter
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Vehicle Block CC CID
2007 - BMW X5 V 4837 -
Mann-Filter
2008 BMW X5 Air Filter 8 Cyl 4.8L Mann-Filter

P311-1D8F5FF    W0133-1792133  New

Qty:
$43.62
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Right
Brand: Mann-Filter
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Vehicle Block CC CID
2008 - BMW X5 V 4837 -
Mann-Filter
2010 BMW X5 Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-1D8F5FF    W0133-1792133  New

Qty:
$43.62
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Passenger Side
Brand: Mann-Filter
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation
2010 - BMW X5 N62B48B
Mann-Filter
2007 BMW X5 Air Filter 8 Cyl 4.8L Mann-Filter

P311-1D8F5FF    W0133-1792133  New

Qty:
$43.62
Mann-Filter Air Filter
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Brand: Mann-Filter
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Vehicle Block CC CID
2007 - BMW X5 V 4837 -
NPN
2007 BMW 335i Air Filter NPN

P311-55F3CD1    W0133-1785633  New

Qty:
$21.92
NPN Air Filter
Brand: NPN
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Vehicle
2007 - BMW 335i
Mahle
2007 BMW 335i Air Filter Mahle

P311-5401D54    W0133-1785633  New

Qty:
$36.20
Mahle Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mahle
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Vehicle
2007 - BMW 335i
Mahle
2011 BMW 135i Air Filter Mahle

P311-14EBF73    W0133-1902022  New

Qty:
$40.13
Mahle Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mahle
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Vehicle
2011 - BMW 135i
Mann-Filter
2011 BMW 535i Air Filter Mann-Filter

P311-044E744    W0133-1902024  New

Qty:
$47.69
Mann-Filter Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Mann-Filter
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2011 - BMW 535i

Latest Bmw Repair and Air Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

back pressure in sump of bmw horizontal motorcyle70's push rod system

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From hgriffin on back pressure in sump of bmw horizontal motorcyle70's push rod system

just overhauled the engine new valve guides valves honed bore and new rings excellent compression over 80lbs per square ins, but i am having quite an amount of back pressure in the sump and is using quite a bit of oil , oil is coming back into the air filter and is getting burnt through the carbs .
can some one help to solve problem how can i nulify the back pressure any help would be greatfull e mail address

email addy deleted. Use private messages function.

Response From Discretesignals

80 lbs? That is low compression.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

Definately too low. I'm guessing you needed to punch it out to the next overbore and replace the pistons and rings with the right size instead of give it a bottle brush hone.

1998 chevy malibu

Showing 3 out of 23 Posts | Show 20 Hidden Posts
Question From buddy56 on 1998 chevy malibu

hi i am hoping someone can help me. i have a 98 chevy malibu 3.1l with 168000 miles. the problem is it idles very rough. i replaced the lower intake gasket because of the coolant leak, did a tune up(fuel filter, plugs, wires, pcv valve, air filter, oil change every 3000 miles, and all other maintenance. i sprayed carb cleaner around the intake but didnt find any leaks. what else should i check.thanks for your help.

Response From Hammer Time

Have the computer scanned to see if there are any stored codes in there.

Response From buddy56

thanks guys for such a quick reply. no there are no codes. i had a code for a cyl 3 misfire but that was cause of a loose plug wire. it ran about the same before the gasket replacement. i replaced it cause it was leaking coolant.

Response From buddy56

the firing order is not adjustable. i have a waste spark system. all the plugs were gapped (checked) before installation. and the wires were replace one by one to avoid mixing them up.

Response From Hammer Time

Of course the firing order can be wrong.
Here's the order it should be in.



Response From buddy56

sorry for the late reply. i did the tune up myself and i did not mix up any wires. i took them off one a a time and did the plug and wire at the same time.

Response From Discretesignals

Does it only idle rough? How does the engine run at higher rpms? Are you getting any trouble codes now?

Response From buddy56

yes. all it does is idle rough. on the highway it runs good. it revs good and there are no check engine lights. i have a code for the trans range sensor but it doesnt set off the light. i doubt that would cause this issue.

Response From Sidom

That's kinda odd there is no codes being set....

If this problem is just at idle & when in drive sitting,, you may want to take a quick look at the motor mounts.........Jack up the engine with a jack & block of wood, just enough to get the weight off the mounts, and see if it does anything for your problem.

Response From buddy56

thanks i will try those suggestions. yes i have a autel scanner and it is able to show live data. i was told by a more experienced tech (bmw foreman) that it could be the mounts. i think its rough in neutral and park. but its really bad in gear. i could see the mirrors shaking. also i did have an issue with the egr valve. can it be cleaned.

Response From Discretesignals

What is the issue with the EGR valve? Most techs can tell the difference between an engine vibration from motor mounts and a vibration from misfiring, so Sid and your tech is probably pointing you in the right direction.

Response From buddy56 Top Rated Answer

well i spoke to two different techs. one tech used the TECH 2 scanner and we saw that the egr valve was open a bit at idle. so we tried to free it up by using the scanner to open and close the valve. also i sprayed carb cleaner in it and let it sit to loosen the carbon. (is that a good way to clean it?) then the bmw tech did not look at the car. i spoke to him and he said it could be a mount since it was happening when it is in gear. i dont feel anything in park but im not too sure if it is rough in park also. but in drive its kinda bad. i feel it in the seat and steering wheel and i also see the side mirrors shaking.

Response From Hammer Time

An EGR valve not closing is a problem and that has to be resolved. If it won't seat on it's own, then you will have to replace it.

Response From buddy56

it was not staying open fully. it was only open a little. can it be cleaned?

Response From Hammer Time

A little open at idle is a problem. Cleaning likely won't work. You can't access the inside at all. It should be replaced. If the engine has a lot of carbon, it could happen again if a loose piece of carbon gets caught in it.

Response From buddy56

so how would i be able to clean the carbon inside the engine?

Response From Hammer Time

Many shops offer an Induction system service that will breakup the carbon.

Response From buddy56

is that the cleaning that uses the walnut shells?

Response From Hammer Time

I have no idea what that is.

Response From Sidom

You put crushed walnuts inside the intake & then squirrels go inside the intake to get the nuts & their tails remove all the carbon from the intake........




There is also a method that is like sand blasting but instead of using sand or glas$ beads.....it uses crushed walnut shells....

Response From buddy56

there was a cleaning where crushed walnuts is used to clean carbon.

Response From Discretesignals

Does your scanner have the ability to monitor data stream information?

Did you reuse the EGR gasket? Check to make sure the EGR gasket is causing a leak and the EGR gasket isn't on backwards. Don't spray carb cleaner around the EGR valve, it will ignite.

Also make sure that your EVAP purge solenoid vacuum line and line to the canister is plugged in

Response From Sidom

Is the check engine light on Buddy?....If it is, pull the codes and post them here

How was it running before the gasket replacement?


Also double check your firing order

vent flaps eratic in opening

Showing 3 out of 11 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From da on vent flaps eratic in opening

2000 323i BMW with erratic vent flap operation have had this problem off and on for last couple of years. blower motor woks well but air will not come from any vents at times now there is some air coming from passenger side but none from drivers side, defrost or floor vents. may work well for several months and then stop again. have heard in dash what has sounded like a flap closing with some force i have a blower resistor switch to install but just as I received it everything went back to working again pulled the glove box out in trying to locate but could not could find no blown fuses but not sure about relays or their location as I said the blower operates but the air flow is erratic what could you suggest

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Guesses for now: Evap could be icing as noticed by low volume of air flow, no draining of condensate and longer use of a/c and self correct if A/C is shut down or car parked and makes a larger than normal puddle.

Another wild thought - does this have a cabin air filter? If so it might be trashed leaving too much residence time at evaporator??

T

Response From da Top Rated Answer

it does have a cabin air filter under the hood which is good and as stated could go back to working at any time and have not noticed any other issues does have automatic climate control which I set on 70 and leave it alone I have blogged to Bavarian auto ask otto.com twice but have not received any reply in almost ,I do not know how long, my son suggested this site and you have responded-thank you. most tell me this particular car seems to have a mind of it's own

Response From Discretesignals

Does it do this right after you have just started the car after it has been sitting?

Response From da

does it all the time now but to think back would only do when first started and then would go back to working properly after it ran for a while

Response From Discretesignals

It doesn't sound like an evaporate icing up. You stated the blower fan is operational, so it has to be air door positioning problems.

Your probably going to have to take it to a dealer or a shop that has the scan tool that can interface the IHKA system. They can probably do some functional motor tests and recalibrate the system to see if that solves the issue.

Response From da

by the way what is the purpose of the IHKA or what exactly is it

Response From Hammer Time

Air Distribution (IHKA Integrated Automatic Heating/Air Conditioning)

Response From da

thank you you have been very helpful most of all the electronic parts on a BMW do have a tendency to cost a lot more money I do believe that what could happened with sensors and related parts has occurred just do not want to blindly spend more than I have to

Response From da

just wanted to follow up with you. the system started back to working again strange. might not work the next time I use the auto or could work for very long time. hope so. still will follow up on your suggestion and will let you know.

Response From da

thank you, I thought it would be something like that. just did not want to pull the whole dash out to get to anything. what you said makes more sense than anything else I have read or heard to date. will let you know later if this corrects the problem. thanks for hanging in there for me. does have a lot of miles on it but still runs great uses no oil and will still average about 33 mpg or better on the highway if driven right

Multiple maintenance issues of the same type - Mechanic goes out of business. Help!

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From tek0011 on Multiple maintenance issues of the same type - Mechanic goes out of business. Help!

I purchased a 2001 530i with 65,008 miles on it, clean title, 1 owner, good history.
Since then I have put over $4,000 of maintenance into the vehicle and some issues have been fixed multiple times. Those same issues are arising again and I am wondering if there is anything I can do as a consumer?
The mechanic that has done all the work is now out of business and I can't even seem to get the warranty's to have another mechanic do the repairs (that is if warranties are even transferable to other shops?)

9/3/10 - 65,008 miles - Vehicle Purchase (1,000 mile 30 day warranty)

9/20/10 - 66,145 miles (past the 1,000 mile warranty): Check Engine light comes on - Scan reveals the following codes: Fuel Trim codes-228, 203, 227, 202. Miss fire codes-242, 243, 241, 240. O2 Sensor code-189.
Smoke tested and major leaks are found.

10/15/2010 - 67,382 miles - Car idles around 200rpm, shakes while accelerating, major lack of power:
Smoke test is performed. Intake Manifold Runner Valve replaced

10/18/2010 - 67,432 miles - Same problem. car idles around 200rpm, shakes while accelerating, major lack of power:
Crankcase vent valve replaced, vacuum hoses replaced, car now starts leaking oil from back passenger side of valve cover. Valve gasket replaced. Smoke test passes.

10/21/2010 - 67,460 miles - Same problem. Car idles around 200rpm, shakes while accelerating, major lack of power, oil leaking from valve cover:
Valve gasket replaced again. Fuel injector #3 replaced. Power and idle issues stop.

12/9/2010 - 69,461 miles - Temperature sky rockets. Code 168 for Thermostat, 189 for insufficient heat output and 222 for o2 sensor not active, oil still leaking from back passenger side of valve cover:
Thermostat replaced, Engine cleaned.

12/15/2010 - 69,557 miles - Major Oil leak from back passenger side of valve cover:
Gasket replaced along with Cylinder Head Cover.

1/7/2011 - 70,450 miles - No more oil leak. Now Vanos oil line is leaking as is power steering fluid.

2/15/2011 - 72,106 miles - No oil leaks, belts start to squeal showing signs of coolant leak from thermostat or water pump. Codes for lean fuel and o2 sensor:
All belts replaced, thermostat replaced again, oil cap replaced, air filters, o2 sensor, synthetic oil change, oil filter all replaced.

3/4/2011 - 72,806 miles - Coolant leak again.
Water pump replaced.

8/4/2011 - 80,282 miles - Coolant leak again.
Water pump and thermostat replaced again.

8/20/2011 - 80,921 miles - Coolant leak again.
Coming from same place. Call mechanic. Mechanic is out of business.

It is now November and I still have a coolant leak coming from water pump, which requires about 2-3 cups of coolant each morning. This is the 3rd time I am having the same issue. Not to mention the belts squeal non stop now, due to having so much coolant leaked on to them.

Can someone please help me with what my options are at this point? This is the 1st used car I have purchased and the first BMW I have owned.
This is close the the worst issue I have ever dealt with in my life.

Total cost to date: $4,084.98 in maintenance.

What can I do? Contact a lawyer? Contact BMW to have another mechanic replace the parts under warranty? Sue the owner of the shop that went out of business? Contact BMW directly and tell them about this?
I am so lost right now, I just wish the car would go away.

Any help at all, is much much appreciated no matter how small the consideration.
Thank you so much.

TL;DR - I have spent over $4,000 in maintenance on my vehicle and the same problem keeps happening. What can I do?

Response From samg.

You wonder why he's out of business? haha

I doubt this was a dealer, I really doubt a bmw dealer would make you go through this much stuff. I bet it was a ind. shop. It sounds to me like maybe he went a bit crazy on the engine when he replaced the water pump with a grinder, seen it too many times. Or, though i'm not familiar with bmw engines specificly, I'd wonder if you don't have a water jacket leak. Are the water pumps on those acces belt drivin or timing belt drivin?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tons of bad luck. Was this a BMW dealership now out of biz? Read the warranty fine print but think you are screwed. Seems like this car had a serious overheat even before you got it and cracked pars.

Multiple replacements of same parts is nuts. There has to be a common denominator if legit and something missed OR tech wasn't wasting any time checking out why.

If whole shop is out of biz they probably owe everyone in the area too for something too - tons more than 4 grand but I can only guess.

Contact BMW and see what they say,

T

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

If this was a dealer, then the BMW might do something, it would be a long shot since they are independently owned...

I guess I misread the original post, I was under the impression this was an independent shop.....

Response From Hammer Time

You might want to contact the BMW zone office if this was a BMW dealer. They may have some leverage on the old dealer.

Response From Sidom

With the shop being out of business, there really isn't much you can do. All the warranties would be with that shop. Shops don't warranty other shops work.

I'm not a legal expert but even if there was some open avenue to purse on an out of business shop, if there is no money left, then getting a judgment would be a "hollow" victory and in the process you would've more than likely racked up way more in legal fees than what you are going after....

I don't have both sides so all I can go off of is what you posted.

In the future, it would be best to find a shop that is trained & tooled to work on your make. Some shops say they "work on everything" when in fact with some makes they are way in over their head.

Find a shop that is qualified to do Euro (they aren't going to be the cheapest). Talk to friends & co workers, see who they use & like. You can go to ase.com or iatn.net, they have shop locators you can look at. Any shop affiliated with these sites is at least attempting to better themselves & keep up with the times. You can check out the better business bureau.

Once you find someone you trust & does good work, stick with them. Keeping in mind that everyone has problems from time to time. Also sometimes other things will fail that has nothing to do with previous work.... A problem or 2 is no reason to fire a good shop BUT if it's a case of incompetence, then yes finding another shop would be in order...

Like I said I can only go off what you posted & don't have the whole story BUT my gut tells me, they were guessing on the driveability problem and have missed the real root of the coolant leak.....Just a guess.....

Good luck, hope this works out for you. Try not to dwell too much on this bad experience or throwing good money after bad. Chalk it up to a lesson learned, keeping mind that not everyone out there is a bad guy.

NJ Motor Vehicle inspection follow up....

Showing 3 out of 12 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From carminejg3 on NJ Motor Vehicle inspection follow up....

Well I replaced the brake light, and had the window clip fixed as well as the front struts replaced. ($700 for both struts, some sleeve and a little weight looking thing that protects the strut from a sudden upward motion)

But as we may have guessed I still failed the emissions test results:
My emissions test results below:

Gas Standard Reading
NOx 970 1624 Failed
HC 128 148 Failed
CO% .71 .49 Pass
CO2% 14.4
O2% 0.4


Before I failed with a NOx reading of 1970 and a HC reading of 179

I changed the spark plugs, and air filter as well as went back to running 93 octane gas (like I'm suppose to be) see note at bottom.

So What do you guys think I should change next? The Oxygen Sensor (o2).... I changed this the last time and the car did pass...
I'm wondering if changing the gas octane could ruin an o2 sensor, or could my car be doing something that is burning out the oxygen sensor?

Any suggestions would be great!!




Gasoline NOTE: Run what the car Manufactors suggest.... It goes WAY beyond the price... 87 octane burns a lot faster, then 93 Octane and your car is designed to fire at a certain point, so the other octane will make it fire early or late....

Funny to note by changing back to 93 octane gasoline..... I gained another 30 mphs....

Response From TekDiva


I joined the site to make this post! LOL. Looks like a great forum though...

Do you know that, in NJ, if you have spent $450 trying to repair the failed emissions you can ask for a special waiver? You need to bring the original invoices and they must be from a liscensed EMF. It's good for 2 years and can be re-issued if applicable.

Hope that helps...

TekDiva

Response From carminejg3

Thanks a lot.

I think this site makes you register to help keep it clean, besides it was fairly simply to register right.

I actually just bought another o2 sensor since I had High NOx and HC.

That back fired on me.

The NOx and HC went up from.

Gas Standard Reading
NOx 970 1624 Failed
HC 128 148 Failed

to:
Gas Standard Reading
NOx 970 2150 Failed
128 250 Failed

Now I'm thinking is it my catalytic converter again (2 years old) or is my car just a piece of crap lol.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I wish I knew more about the emmisions systems. The octane of fuel shouldn't matter if the car was designed for 87 octane. Have one of my own that fails by the slightest amount of Nox, and I put in a new EGR and things that should help and it tested worse by a smidge. It's a 1989 Town Car and this state still want's it to blow fresh air and it wasn't even designed for that so I'm ticked. That car now has 209,000 miles and is rusting badly so it's now on its last sticker.

Your converter should last longer than two years but if it's been taxed too much it could have given up.

If this car runs well it should be just some stupid problem like intake vacuum or any vacuum leaks. Take it out safely for a good beating -- meaning foot to the floor several times especially if the normal driving is just poking around as mine are.

Your #s are pretty high so there is something wrong and it is costing you fuel economy too.

I've heard isopropyl dry gas can help some but probably not as much as you need.

You can test for vacuum leaks with brakecleaner or carb/throttle body cleaner but some if flammable and on a hot engine a bit dangerous so if you try that have a real ABC fire extinguisher handy as some of these can flash with a hot engine. Engine idle should not change when using this trick on a vacuum suspect leak. Use sparingly if you try that, T

Response From carminejg3

Latest I changed the O2 Sensor, and my results shot up to

NOx 2254 (need 970)
HC 250 (need 128)

Do I need a new catalytic converter? Or what does an ERG system control and how could you check it out in a 92 325i bmw

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) is there to put a bit of already burned gas back into the intake but only at part throttle. It should be off at idle and off at full throttle. For some reason the tidbit it puts into fresh fuel and air lowers the combustion temp which lowers NOx. A colder engine will have less NOx but have higher HC.

The EGR was never meant to just reburn any unburned fuel as first thought by many.

A new Cat Converter would help but I'm not sure that would be enough.

Do you have a vacuum gauge? If not get one that makes vaccuum with a gauge and a peice of howe and a "T" that fits the hose for some testing.

Manifold vacuum should be about 18Hg at idle and the same without load at about 2,000 or it's indicating an exhaust restiction!

Also -- Is ignition timing correct? That could throw things off too, Just the thoughts du jour, T

Response From carminejg3

Hey Tom,

I recently noticed that once in a while my car is now giving a little backfire, not the loud boom, but you can hear a backfire after stepping on the gas and then coasting with the car still in gear

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What kind of car is this and how many miles? If it uses a timing belt and it's overdue it may have jumped a tooth, T

Response From carminejg3 Top Rated Answer

tom its a 92 bmw 325i... with 215,000 miles.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

?? I guess check the timing and see if it jumps around too much but doubt that for a Beamer and that could mean a worn distributor, T

Response From TekDiva


I really feel for ya ....

I'm just starting down this road right now- trying to save my beloved beater 87 manual trans bronco. I think it will be quite a "trip" ...

Personally, I'm really relieved to know that I'm not "into" the emissions for more than $450. I don't care what the critics say, I just really love this car and really want to save it. Call me a silly mach-a dork!

lol

TekDiva

Response From carminejg3

Yeah I know the feeling.... I already spent 700 on struts, so I'm going to try and replace the catalytic. And see what happens from there.

Or I'll do what everyone else seems to be doing in NJ, registering my car in a different state for cheap insurance and less straight motor vehicle test.