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1981 Porsche 911 Accelerator Pedal Danske

P311-5C8FF51    1672100700  New

Danske Accelerator Pedal
Brand: Danske
Additional Fitment Information:
1981 - Porsche 911
URO Parts
1982 Porsche 911 Accelerator Pedal URO Parts

P311-06F2A2E    91142311103  New

91142311103 , URO-012792 , 625 43003 595 , 625 43003 001 , 91142311101 , 1672100700 , 911 423 111 03

  • Accelerator Pedal
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Colors: Black
    • Length: 225
    • Linkage Attached: No
    • Material: Pp
    • Pedal Assembly Included: No
    • Removable Face: No
    • Sensor Type: None
    • Thickness: 16
    • Width: 60
    • Guaranteed fitment
    • Replacement of worn or broken OE pedal instantly restores proper accelerator pedal operation
    • High-strength metal and/or elastomer materials withstand floorboard heat and repeated pedal movement for maximum durability
    • Manufactured to OE specifications for proper fit and easy installation
    • 24-Month / Unlimited Mileage Warranty
Brand: URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
1982 - Porsche 911
Original Equipment
1966 Porsche 911 Accelerator Pedal Original Equipment

P311-11B2590    W0133-2738675  New

Original Equipment Accelerator Pedal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Pedal Assembly
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
1966 - Porsche 911
1989 Porsche 911 Accelerator Pedal APA/URO Parts

P311-5329560    W0133-2738676  New

APA/URO Parts Accelerator Pedal
  • Pedal Assembly
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1989 - Porsche 911 Carrera

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1994 eagle summit

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From eglesmt94 on 1994 eagle summit

Not 100% certain this is correct area, as I'm not certain is the transmission but uncertain what else to consider it.

1994 Eagle Summit ESi, 1.8l engine, automatic transmission with ~160k miles on it

Car has not had any problems before this. Was driving down road(probably about 45mph or so) and acceleration pedal stuck, attempted to break, but would not slow down the car and was hard to do. Had to put car into neutral to get it to stop accelerating. Turned off car.

Started car again, started driving, did it again. Went back to neutral, turned off car. Started car back up and car would not go into gear. The shift would work, it let me move the stick, but the engine would just rev up and car wouldn't move, wouldn't actually go into drive, reverse, or anything else.

So far we have checked the tranny, drained the fluid and checked the pan, saw no indication of damage. The fluid was fine, everything seemed fine.

Does it sound like it must be electrical? If so what exactly would cause it to accelerate like that then not even move?

Response From Discretesignals

You should focus on why the accelerator pedal stuck. Check the throttle cable, accelerator pedal, and throttle body plate for binding.

Response From eglesmt94

Update on the eagle. Still no luck.

Got a diagnostic tool on it finally, showing no code.

Gas pedal mechanics and everything seems fine down there, reason behind it sticking still unknown.

Running out of ideas, we had a guy from transmission shop stop in and look at it and he didn't have any idea either.

Next step will be to take the whole tranny out and check it, even though the pan seemed clean.

Any thoughts anyone? thought diagnostic tool might catch it if it was a sensor, but that was no luck...

Thanks in advance for any help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hold on a second. Is throttle still way too high now? For now forget trans as this began with stuck throttle then didn't shift into gear later. You should be able to see the throttle move with a helper pushing the pedal at the the intake throttle body. All this with everything off. Look at the plate to see it shut completely visually. Can you move it by hand more toward lower idle right at the engine?

Is the shifter moving all the way to the trans? A trans tech should have noticed that but who knows? Instinct tells me both issues have a common issue but could be wrong. IDK but if the idle is wildly way too high now - still - then perhaps there's a fail-safe not to engage trans?

Again, I just think this is something out of whack underhood that both throttle and shifter share. That struggle to slow down really shouldn't have been any harder on trans than going up a steep hill IMO but again who knows for sure?

I'm not ready to tear trans apart with this situation and not so sure of you getting that suggestion but I'm not there inspecting this in person either,


Response From eglesmt94 Top Rated Answer

checked the throttle- lowered the idle and it seemed to make the engine a bit happier but still not engaging trans.

Friend's cousin was over and said he had the exact same problem a few weeks ago and it had to do with the neutral safety switch, he replaced his and it fixed it no problem.

So that is what we are trying now. Only $13 for one so if thats it not I have no problem. But if that doesn't work I'm out of ideas.

Will be putting it in tomorrow.

For now, friend finally got his Porsche 944 running :D

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Neutral safety switch is so it won't START in anything but N or P. Nothing to do with whether is engage a gear to move IMO. To save you the $13 buck those if basic (probably) you could just jump with a paper clip type thing and it's no longer in the picture.

Does PARK hold the car? Then car off does it release when put to N or any if not running? IDK - this may have just snapped something from the trauma,


Response From eglesmt94

Well we got the wrong thing sent to us anyways. So no on the neutral safety switch?

Hmm.. no idea then.

Park holds the car fine. Only will move in neutral.

Fairly certain it isn't mechanical as I think I would've heard something snap/grind/etc.

Any other ideas?

Oh- I think I forgot to mention this.. there is an electrical buzzing sound of some sort from what we think is the tranny or very near. unplugged another something and the buzzing stops but car will not start . will try to get pictures of what was unplugged to make it stop.

Response From eglesmt94


Guy from transmission shop says its bad, replacing or rebuilding. Didn't elaborate though. Whatever, only paid him twenty bucks. Useless. I'm still convinced its electrical, but other friend thinks torque converter.

Tearing it out soon, seems I'm gonna have problems finding an exact match for it. Closest I've seen is a 96 Mirage that has the exact same engine. For $800.
Not really interested in spending that much on a refurbished transmission hat might or not might work.

Theres Mirages all the way up to 01 with the same engine- would it be likely that those might work? Or would we have electrical/computer problems?

If not, seems we're shit out of luck because its rediculously hard to find parts for this transmission anyways.

Maybe better off trying to find an engine swap that wouldn't be too difficult so I have something with easier to obtain parts.

Response From HT

So, the transmission specialist told you what was wrong but you think he is wrong and you know better?

You can't find a transmission for the price you want to pay so you think changing the engine is the answer?

Maybe you just need to look for a new car.