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2005 Jeep Liberty Accelerator Pedal 4 Cyl 2.8L Mopar

P311-4E728EA    53013703AB  New

Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Doors Body Region Engine VIN Wheel FeedBase Bed Length Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Jeep Liberty Sport 4 Sport Utility United States 5 104.2 N/R L 4 Cyl 2.8L 171 2768
2012 Jeep Liberty Accelerator Pedal 6 Cyl 3.7L Mopar

P311-14E0165    53013783AG  New

Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Doors Body Region Engine VIN Wheel FeedBase Bed Length Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Jeep Liberty Sport 4 Sport Utility Canada K 106.1 N/R V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1988 Jeep Cherokee 2.5L Hesitates, Bucks, Extreme high idle & dies when cold

Showing 10 out of 11 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From strexx on 1988 Jeep Cherokee 2.5L Hesitates, Bucks, Extreme high idle & dies when cold

Ok, we just got a 1988 Jeep Cherokee. It has a 2.5L engine, 5 speed manual transmission.

List of symptoms include:
1. Slow to start, takes lots of cranking, and have to keep foot on accelerator pedal until it will idle on its own (which takes several minutes).
2. Extremely high idle when started cold, then dies... so we have to keep the pedal down some....
3. Idles fine once warmed up.
4. Taking off from a stop is okay, but it begins to hesitate/bog down, then it will buck like you're just learning to drive a stick. Often, pressing the clutch back in and revving it up, then releasing the clutch will make it stop bucking, but not for long. It does this in all the gears -- except, we've never had it going fast enough to even go into 5th gear. Driving on flat roads often requires upshifting and downshifting to stop the bucking and to help keep the speed up... Going up hills is a joke. Downshift, downshift, downshift, till it's barely even crawling up the hill. The heavier the acceleration, the worse the problem gets.
5. The warmer the Jeep gets (the longer it's driven) the worse the hesitation/bogging/bucking become...

There is no tach, so I can't tell what the RPM range is when this is occurring.
I don't know anything about the history of this Jeep, but it does appear that the entire exhaust system is new, including the catalytic converter. (No red-glowing catalytic converter, either, so I've pretty much ruled this out as the problem).
I haven't done anything to it yet, but I'm just looking for the most logical place to start and the most common causes of these symptoms. We're thinking fuel pump. I did replace the section of rubber line from the tank to the fuel filter with metal line to make sure it wasn't collapsing under pressure. And bypassed the fuel filter for a brief test-drive to see if the filter was clogged or clogging, but there was no improvement.

Is it possible that it's the TPS instead of a fuel supply problem?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

strexx; Couple of things jump out at me, here. This should be TBI (throttle body injection). With fuel injected engines, when you depress the throttle, you are giving the engine more air. Not fuel. If it helps starting by opening the throttle, that sounds to me that it is overfueling. Although rare, I have seen MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensors cause this. More common are the CTS (Coolant temp sensor) sensors. The MAP sensor reads engine vacuum. When it 'sees' a drop in vacuum, it tells the computer that you are accelerating, and then 'dumps' fuel. The CTS tells the computer the engine temp. If it thinks that it's -40F outside, it 'dumps' fuel. Either of these, or many other possiblities, could cause the extended crank symptoms. If it IS overfueling, it is very possible that the catalytic converter is plugged. Unfortunately, some diagnostics are going to be required to get to the 'cause'. If you have the equipment, we can supply a chart so that you can check the CTS resistance vs. actual temperature. The cat. can be checked with a pressure guage installed in the oxygen sensor port or a vacuum reading at idle and cruise speeds. But, need to find the cause before attacking the cat.

Response From strexx

It just seems to be starved for gasoline, in a nutshell.
the cat is brand new.

Installed new plugs today, and dumped in a bottle of injector cleaner.

Starts a little easier, smoothed it out a little running wise, and it idles much better, but the bucking problem is still there. At first, before it warmed up, it didn't buck until 3rd gear, but on the return trip from the test-drive after she was warm, the bucking was back in all of the gears.

Now, in addition to all of that, it started overheating today. In a matter of minutes, it was hot and boiling over into the overflow. Checked the obvious (fluid level, looked for leaks, checked the oil for water contamination, etc), then checked the thermostat... there was no thermostat. Installed one, with the new gasket. Still... overheats rapidly, just at idle, without even being driven.

There's a lot of other little stuff we're working on, too... no brake lights, heater core leaks (we assume, someone else bypassed it at some point), blower motor doesn't work, etc, etc. This one is definitely a challenge.

Response From Hammer Time

I would start out with a cooling system pressure test. It could have a blown head gasket. Check your fuel pressure also.

Response From chickenhouse

Can you see coolant flowing in the radiator while it's running?;

Response From strexx

Did check for radiator flow, and it kinda "surges", coolant level drops below the point where you can still see it in the radiator, then it all comes flowing through and it pours out the radiator opening for 15 - 30 seconds, then goes back down. And it just keeps doing that. No other symptoms of a blown head gasket.

Don't have any way to check the fuel pressure, or would have done that already.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>> coolant level drops below the point where you can still see it in the radiator, then it all comes flowing through and it pours out the radiator opening for 15 - 30 seconds, then goes back down. And it just keeps doing that. No other symptoms of a blown head gasket. >>
strexx; This sounds like you've got an air pocket in the system, installed the thermostat backwards?
Although rare, could be that the water pump is faulty. The impeller on the water pump could be 'eaten' away from rust or (believe it or not) air in the system. Air bubbles will wear away metal. Also, again very rare, the impeller could be slipping on the shaft, not circulating the water. I'd remove the thermostat, get it full of water, and watch to see if you have good circulation. It should be a steady flow out of the upper radiator hose into the radiator. top left of the picture is the top of the thermostat, and should be pointed towards the radiator.

Response From Hammer Time

Don't have any way to check the fuel pressure, or would have done that already.

Then maybe you should be bringing it to a shop that is equipped to diagnose your problem.

Response From strexx

If I had the cash to do that, I'd have done that.... which is why I'm here. Was just looking for suggestions.
Thanks for you time.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

We have given you suggestions. The suggestions were for testing which is how these problems are found. If you aren't equipped to perform the necessary tests, then you have no choice but pay someone else to do it for you. we can give you advice but we don't use crystal balls. We use test equipment and we pay dearly for it.

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds more like an ignition misfire to me but it's impossible to tell from someone else's description..

1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 Won't Idle

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From AaronA on 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0 Won't Idle

We recently braved a pretty decent storm here in NW Texas earlier this week. Tuesday, the day after the storm, I attempted to start up my '96 Cherokee Sport. It turned over but would not idle. It sounds as if it's turning over normally, and actually sounds very good, yet it idles for a split second before the car dies.

However, stepping on the gas while starting the ignition and holding the accelerator keeps the engine operating, though it shuts down again just as I take my foot off.

Research led me to believe this could be an air flow issue. I went ahead and cleaned my Idle Air Control Valve, though I found that it wasn't even especially dirty in the first place. Cleaning it out did not help.

It was relatively low on gas before parking it (outdoors, I don't have a garage) through the storm, so I hiked to the nearest gas station and came back with a gallon of premium, Still. no dice.

My battery has plenty of juice and the alternator seems fine enough.

I obviously haven't completely addressed or investigated the air flow issue, though I may very well have a fuel pump issue. I am not a "car guy" and have little mechanical knowledge beyond the very basics. I am guessing my issues will require a mechanic, and I have a guy, but I would like to have a better idea regarding what I am dealing with before taking it to him.

Please ask for any other details I may have left out if you think you can make a suggestion. I would greatly appreciate any help and am anxious to hear some ideas.

Cheers, Aaron.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

If you have to keep the engine idling by feathering the accelerator pedal, you have an idle air control issue.

Response From AaronA

I clean the solenoid, so that is not looking to be the issue, unless the solenoid itself is not operating for whatever reason.

What factors may effect the IAC? The electrical connection not causing the solenoid to act properly? Air flow?

I may then go ahead and buy a new IAC and replace it, but I do not want to make a purchase that will have no real effect should there be other factors present.

Any ideas where I should further investigate or look a little deeper?

Response From Hammer Time

Don't assume simply cleaning is going to fix anything. It's an electrical stepper motor. Washing it doesn't fix anything electrical.

Response From AaronA

With that in mind, would there be anything else that would influence the IAC's being functional? I don't mind replacing it, however if there is a cheaper, simpler, different alternative that may be causing my issue, what could that possibly be? Any ideas?

Response From Hammer Time

Well, maybe you should try a wash and wax.

Response From AaronA

Condescension, the greatest biproduct of the internet. Feel free to go fuck yourself.

Response From Sidom

Aaron..Aaron...AARON....(shaking head)....Dude....thats was joke......He was just kidding with you bro...

Pity.........There are a lot of good techs... here.....

Response From Hammer Time

You ask stupid questions, you get stupid answers.

Response From Hammer Time

Feel free to get free help elsewhere.