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2009 GMC Canyon Accelerator Pedal ACDelco

P311-055BB06    W0133-2460767  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
ACDelco Accelerator Pedal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
2009 - GMC Canyon
2009 GMC Canyon Accelerator Pedal ACDelco - Accelerator Pedal; WITH ACCELERATOR PEDAL

P311-18854EC    25955673  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
ACDelco Accelerator Pedal
  • Accelerator Pedal; WITH ACCELERATOR PEDAL
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
2009 - GMC Canyon
2012 GMC Canyon Accelerator Pedal ACDelco - Accelerator Pedal; WITH ACCELERATOR PEDAL

P311-1AEB194    20844306  New

In Stock & Ready to Ship
ACDelco Accelerator Pedal
  • Accelerator Pedal; WITH ACCELERATOR PEDAL
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
2012 - GMC Canyon
In Stock & Ready to Ship
ACDelco Accelerator Pedal
  • Accelerator Pedal; WITH ACCELERATOR PEDAL
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Engine
2005 - GMC Canyon 8 4 Cyl 2.8L
2009 GMC Canyon Accelerator Pedal Dorman

P311-4338A5B    699-116  New

10376526 , 25955673 , 5S7934 , APS136 , PPS1035 , SU9400

In Stock & Ready to Ship
Dorman Accelerator Pedal
  • Accelerator Pedal Assembly
  • w/Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Length: 13.2
    • Linkage Attached: Yes
    • Material: Plastic
    • Mounting Method: Bolt On
    • Package Contents: 1 Accelerator Pedal Sensor
    • Removable Face: Yes
  • Features:
    • Ideal replacement - this accelerator pedal position sensor matches the fit and function of the original sensor
    • Plug & play installation - no special tools or programming required to install this sensor
    • Trustworthy construction - engineered in North America and made from high-quality materials for long life
    • Quality tested - this accelerator pedal sensor has undergone extensive testing to ensure proper function and a long service life
  • This direct replacement accelerator pedal position sensor matches the fit and performance of a failed original equipment sensor to restore proper vehicle operation. Made of quality materials for a reliable service life.
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
2009 - GMC Canyon

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Engine not revving when acceleration pedal is press down.

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From CVue on Engine not revving when acceleration pedal is press down.

I have a Hyundai Sonata 07, here's my symptoms:

1. Car would not start, it will bla bla bla but not turn over. I waited a little while then kept trying, then boom, it works. I drove it home from where it wouldn't start and it seem to drive fine.
2. Got home and turned off the engine. Turn the car on and it turns fine, but now it has check engine light on. I try and press the car acceleration pedal but i cannot hear any revving of the engine.

Did the throttle go out? Is the throttle sensor position not correct or failing? I'm not sure what the problem could be. Any help would be appreciated.

Need Help Diagnosing Car Problem.

Response From kev2

Scan for codes even if light is off - post all codes someone will advise.

Response From CVue Top Rated Answer

Scan for codes even if light is off - post all codes someone will advise.

I don't have a way to scan for codes at this time, wanting to know if anyone has a guess to what it could be.

Response From Hammer Time

We don't simply "guess" to repair modern cars. We need information to isolate a cause and that means you need to read the codes first.

trouble with accelerator pedal on 2006 ford escape

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mmpmom on trouble with accelerator pedal on 2006 ford escape

Hi first time user here, can someone please help me. I have a 2006 Ford Escape and when I brake my accelerator pedal just freezes my engine doesnt rev or anything I just keep tapping it then it takes off after about a minute or two it is getting dangerous. This happens once in a while summer or winter, but here lately it is happening alot. Then when it goes it takes off fast. Any suggestions, thank you.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

This could be due to the accelerator cable becoming seized or frayed; causing the inner cable to jam inside the outer cable casing? If this is the case; replacing the cable is about the only thing that can be done to cure the problem. To confirm this; you would have to disconnect the cable at both ends and see if there is any binding felt as you push pull on the inner cable.
There is a chance that the throttle plates them selves are jamming; due to carbon build up; which a good cleaning with air intake cleaner; usually remedies.


RPM drop/stalling after letting go of accelerator pedal

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on RPM drop/stalling after letting go of accelerator pedal


I hope that someone has an idea why the RPM drop very fast and go back up after letting go of the accelerator pedal. That isn't a problem when driving above 50mph but if I drive less than 30mph (like in the city or stop and go traffic) than the drop of RPM causes engine stalling since the drop starts at a lower RPM and goes below 400RPM (at which time the car is stalling).
I already know that it isn't the fuel filter, air filter, oxygen senor, and transmission filter. That got already replaced by me and two mechanics but still the same problem and none of the mechanics know whats wrong (gives no error codes). The problem shows up every few months and disappears again.

Car data:
Eagle Vision
83000 miles

I hope someone here is smarter than my two mechanics.

Response From Hammer Time

You may have a bad IAC ( idle air control) but try cleaning the throttle body first. Remove the intake snorkel, have someone hold the throttle wide open for you and scrub the back side of the throttle plate and surrounding bore with an old tooth brush and some carb cleaner. Be sure to spray some into the small holes next to the throttle plate. That should help stabilize the idle. If it still has a problem, replace the IAC.

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

You were right with the IAC. I replaced it and now I can even see the difference when I only turn the car on. No more rapid RPM movement and stalling.
Thanks a lot.

Response From Hammer Time

That's good. I would clean the throttle body also. It helps the IAC work properly.

Runaway idle /EFI/ throttle by wire

Showing 3 out of 11 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From Joeb1983 on Runaway idle /EFI/ throttle by wire

2006 Infiniti G35 coupe. (350z)
3.5l, VQ35DE revup
6 speed manual

Engine RPM rising with no accelerator pedal input.

Lift off gas, put in clutch, RPM will hang and then rise to 4, 5, 6, 7k...

If I pull up on the accelerator pedal hard, bending the armature RPM's will drop.

To me I thought it was a bad accelerator pedal position sensor...

I replaced the entire pedal assembly given you can't just purchase the sensor alone and seeing how the sensor is indexed in the bracket/mount.

Drove the car for about 5 minutes after instal, seemed fine and I thought all was well, so I drove it to work.

After around 30 miles stopping at a red light RPM's started rising again...

Pull up HARD on the (new) pedal they drop...

It will slowly rise to the limiter if I let it...

Any ideas?

MAF is fairly new. Less than 3k.

Response From Discretesignals

Does your scan tool have data stream capabilities? If so, you should graph APP 1 volts, APP2 volts, TPS 1 volts, TPS 2 volts, actual engine rpm, and desired engine rpm. See what those pids are doing when your problem is occurring. Maybe that information can paint a better picture.

Probably would also be a good idea to scan for codes on the manufacture side. Sometimes manufacture codes don't show up on the OBD2 side. You need a enhanced scan or the factory scan tool to get more information.

Response From Joeb1983

My scan tool has the ability to view live data.

I also have tuning software that has all the features of consult II. (However I can't get it to open after upgrading to Windows 10)

I guess that gives away the car is not stock...

This is where I usually lose peoples help or go on a wild rabbit chases.

Given its been fine up until now I figured it had to be a simple component failure unrelated to the modifications given all had been completely fine up until now.

Here is a condensed list of mods. Any specifics feel free to ask if your still with me. Haha!

Vortech supercharger
Walbro drop in pump (255lph)
Injector Dynamics 725cc fuel injectors.
UpRev GT MAF (recalibrated OEM)
Full exhaust (headers , cats and exhaust)
Jim Wolf technologies clutch and fly (dealer installed)
UpRev Osiris tuning software (unlocks and re-flashes oem ecu)
Very conservative dyno tune from a world renowned tuner.

Viewing live data I don't see anything crazy. Ignition advance follows RPM, MAF is not erratic, coolant temp, IAT all steady and nothing high or low.

I can't view APP only TPS and It seems to correlate. It's a gradual rise in RPM; maybe 1k per 1.5 - 2 seconds so it's not a huge increase.

I wish my software worked. I can log no problem.

I see no fluctuations with vac and I have no boost leaks

Response From kev2

"Given its been fine up until now I figured it had to be a simple component failure unrelated to the modifications given all had been completely fine up until now"
you are discounting that a modified component has failed- They are the most LIKELY to fail.

getting the scanner working is key, I wonder if the throttle plate is actually moving OR something causing hi RPM,
look at the throttle control motor - is the circuit ECM to motor actuator , open, shorted to power, look at trouble trees p2100 and up as that is the fly be wire system wire colors ECM pinouts, tests etc....

GTG first susprct is always aftermarket

Response From Joeb1983

I see what your saying, I just have a feeling its not the blower, fuel system or exhaust causing the issue.

I'm not even in boost when it ramps up.

I have wide bands and I don't see any fluctuation or any lean or rich conditions from target AFR's.

I'm un-installing and re-installing the software now.

Response From Discretesignals

Just like with any drive-ability problem, the first thing is to identify what is causing the concern. You need to start here first before guessing and swapping things. Collecting data from suspected systems, doing visual inspections, and interpreting data to figure out what is going on is important.

Once you identify the what, then proceed to figure out why. Once you isolate the why and repair it, then figure out why the why occurred, so it doesn't happen again.

Sometimes you can get caught up in rabbit holes diagnosing stuff. That is where thinking outside the box is helpful. If you see things in data or reactions by something that don't make any sense, sometimes resets can fix the issue. I've run into a few vehicles that doing a reset by disconnecting the battery, touching the terminals together, and turning on the ignition for a period of time, actually corrected the anomalies. Somewhere in software or logic functions the PCM gets caught up in loops and does strange things. Why this happens I don't have a clue. Fully powering down the PCM, just like your PC, can bring things back into order sometimes. Recognizing the weird things that are unusual come with experience. Sometimes connecting a certain brand of scan tool or device to the OBD2 connector or even accessing certain modules can cause all kind of weird things to happen.

Our shop uses an Autel scanner and the other day I connected into 06 Hyundai Santa Fe. When I did a full system scan the engine shut off. I noticed the engine shut off when the scanner was getting codes from the immobilizer system. I didn't condemn the vehicle. I suspected it had something to do with how the scanner communicated with the module. It was repeatable of course. Just so many variables to deal with on these vehicles and it gets worse with modifications.

Response From kev2

sorry I had to go... What I was thinking was

Because the ECM sees no conflict between APP and TPS I question if the throttle plate is really moving. and something else is causing RPM.

The RPM ranging up may require several incidents to set codes they are NOT 1 failure type.
I think your pulling up on throttle is causing a out of range issue and the ECM defaults - the issue causing high RPM is no longer present, the one time pulling on APP assy would not code and you return to 'normal' .

have you looked at MAF - is it gong up as RPM goes up?
With a blower positive manifold pressure how do you handle EVAP purge, and similar functions?

Response From Discretesignals

This is where I usually lose peoples help or go on a wild rabbit chases.

That is perfectly understandable. Most of the professionals in the auto repair industry don't get too many modern modified (electrically and mechanically) vehicles in the shop or even want to deal with them. Modifications open up another world of possible problems. Once you start getting into software changes and other mods, the factory repair information becomes useless.

I know that in factory software, the PCM is monitoring the correlation between sensors to be sure they are in agreement. If the PCM sees an increase in idle speed or rpm, but doesn't see APP voltage changes, it should go into reduced power mode and either fix the throttle position or kill injectors. It should also flag codes. If it sees sensor correlation errors or sensor circuit issues it should do the same thing. There has to be redundancy for safety. It is how the factory software is written. When software is altered or modified, it is possible those parameters for TAC issues are not included or altered so they don't perform the same way? Hard to say without knowing exactly how the modified software is written.

If it was factory software and you had no error codes or reduced power messages, I'd say yes, the PCM is seeing an APP1 and 2 change for some reason and bringing up engine speed. Then you need to find out what is causing the voltage changes for APP inputs. Really don't know why pulling on the accelerator pedal causes the engine to come back down, unless you're changing the APP voltage input voltages into something the PCM software doesn't usually see or recognize.

If you had a 4 channel lab scope you could also scope the TPS and APP sensors and actually see if the throttle is opening and causing the higher idle or if there is something else causing the engine to idle up. Really need some data from those sensors. Probably would also be interesting to see what the injector pulse width is doing if you don't see changes in TPS voltages or throttle percentage during the idle up concern. You also have to know what those voltages should be normally, of course. Need a baseline to work from.

Response From Hammer Time

If you haven't done it already, have the computer scanned for codes.

Response From Joeb1983 Top Rated Answer

I have a scan tool and there are no current or pending codes unfortunately... (should have listed that)

Appreciate the reply.

*** I also should mention I have performed the accelerator pedal position reset as well. ***

No fix.

Also, RPM is not searching nor erratic. It's a smooth increase just as if I was slowly pressing down on the pedal.

Pins on both connector arnd sensor are not receased, bent or broken.

The thing that stumps me is why does the RPM drop if I pull up HARD on both the old and new pedal assemblies.

They both are at their mechanical stops... Plus, again this is a brand new assembly doing the exact thing, so obviously that was not the issue.

Response From kev2

my first thoughts....
Is your 'scanner' up to the job? these codes will likely be so called manufacturers specific.
Also will scanner allow you to view 'live' data - ?
important- vehicle is STOCK ?
I will look at TSB's and reflashes awaiting answers...

1994 eagle summit

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From eglesmt94 on 1994 eagle summit

Not 100% certain this is correct area, as I'm not certain is the transmission but uncertain what else to consider it.

1994 Eagle Summit ESi, 1.8l engine, automatic transmission with ~160k miles on it

Car has not had any problems before this. Was driving down road(probably about 45mph or so) and acceleration pedal stuck, attempted to break, but would not slow down the car and was hard to do. Had to put car into neutral to get it to stop accelerating. Turned off car.

Started car again, started driving, did it again. Went back to neutral, turned off car. Started car back up and car would not go into gear. The shift would work, it let me move the stick, but the engine would just rev up and car wouldn't move, wouldn't actually go into drive, reverse, or anything else.

So far we have checked the tranny, drained the fluid and checked the pan, saw no indication of damage. The fluid was fine, everything seemed fine.

Does it sound like it must be electrical? If so what exactly would cause it to accelerate like that then not even move?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

You should focus on why the accelerator pedal stuck. Check the throttle cable, accelerator pedal, and throttle body plate for binding.

Response From eglesmt94

Update on the eagle. Still no luck.

Got a diagnostic tool on it finally, showing no code.

Gas pedal mechanics and everything seems fine down there, reason behind it sticking still unknown.

Running out of ideas, we had a guy from transmission shop stop in and look at it and he didn't have any idea either.

Next step will be to take the whole tranny out and check it, even though the pan seemed clean.

Any thoughts anyone? thought diagnostic tool might catch it if it was a sensor, but that was no luck...

Thanks in advance for any help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hold on a second. Is throttle still way too high now? For now forget trans as this began with stuck throttle then didn't shift into gear later. You should be able to see the throttle move with a helper pushing the pedal at the the intake throttle body. All this with everything off. Look at the plate to see it shut completely visually. Can you move it by hand more toward lower idle right at the engine?

Is the shifter moving all the way to the trans? A trans tech should have noticed that but who knows? Instinct tells me both issues have a common issue but could be wrong. IDK but if the idle is wildly way too high now - still - then perhaps there's a fail-safe not to engage trans?

Again, I just think this is something out of whack underhood that both throttle and shifter share. That struggle to slow down really shouldn't have been any harder on trans than going up a steep hill IMO but again who knows for sure?

I'm not ready to tear trans apart with this situation and not so sure of you getting that suggestion but I'm not there inspecting this in person either,


Response From eglesmt94

checked the throttle- lowered the idle and it seemed to make the engine a bit happier but still not engaging trans.

Friend's cousin was over and said he had the exact same problem a few weeks ago and it had to do with the neutral safety switch, he replaced his and it fixed it no problem.

So that is what we are trying now. Only $13 for one so if thats it not I have no problem. But if that doesn't work I'm out of ideas.

Will be putting it in tomorrow.

For now, friend finally got his Porsche 944 running :D

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Neutral safety switch is so it won't START in anything but N or P. Nothing to do with whether is engage a gear to move IMO. To save you the $13 buck those if basic (probably) you could just jump with a paper clip type thing and it's no longer in the picture.

Does PARK hold the car? Then car off does it release when put to N or any if not running? IDK - this may have just snapped something from the trauma,


Response From eglesmt94

Well we got the wrong thing sent to us anyways. So no on the neutral safety switch?

Hmm.. no idea then.

Park holds the car fine. Only will move in neutral.

Fairly certain it isn't mechanical as I think I would've heard something snap/grind/etc.

Any other ideas?

Oh- I think I forgot to mention this.. there is an electrical buzzing sound of some sort from what we think is the tranny or very near. unplugged another something and the buzzing stops but car will not start . will try to get pictures of what was unplugged to make it stop.

Response From eglesmt94


Guy from transmission shop says its bad, replacing or rebuilding. Didn't elaborate though. Whatever, only paid him twenty bucks. Useless. I'm still convinced its electrical, but other friend thinks torque converter.

Tearing it out soon, seems I'm gonna have problems finding an exact match for it. Closest I've seen is a 96 Mirage that has the exact same engine. For $800.
Not really interested in spending that much on a refurbished transmission hat might or not might work.

Theres Mirages all the way up to 01 with the same engine- would it be likely that those might work? Or would we have electrical/computer problems?

If not, seems we're shit out of luck because its rediculously hard to find parts for this transmission anyways.

Maybe better off trying to find an engine swap that wouldn't be too difficult so I have something with easier to obtain parts.

Response From HT

So, the transmission specialist told you what was wrong but you think he is wrong and you know better?

You can't find a transmission for the price you want to pay so you think changing the engine is the answer?

Maybe you just need to look for a new car.