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We stock Accelerator Pedal parts for most Buick models, including Allure, Enclave, LaCrosse, Rainier.

Dorman
2008 Buick Allure Accelerator Pedal Dorman

P311-42F7E14    699-104  New

APS128 , PPS1027 , 15884314 , 25830023 , 5S7944 , SU9410

Qty:
$66.46
Dorman Accelerator Pedal
  • w/Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Length (In): 13 In.
    • Mounting Method: Screws
    • Thickness (in): 3 In.
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Buick Allure
Dorman
2008 Buick Enclave Accelerator Pedal Dorman

P311-37423DC    699-106  New

25865203 , 5S13733 , PPS1262 , APS362 , SU13863 , SU15139 , 22802046 , 5S12448

Qty:
$61.80
Dorman Accelerator Pedal
  • w/Sensor Plastic Lever Arm
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Length (In): 15 In.
    • Mounting Method: Screws
    • Thickness (in): 7 In.
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Buick Enclave
Dorman
2017 Buick Enclave Accelerator Pedal Dorman

P311-37423DC    699-106  New

25865203 , 5S13733 , PPS1262 , APS362 , SU13863 , SU15139 , 22802046 , 5S12448

Qty:
$61.80
Dorman Accelerator Pedal
  • w/Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Length (In): 15 In.
    • Mounting Method: Screws
    • Thickness (in): 7 In.
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2017 - Buick Enclave
Dorman
2009 Buick Allure Accelerator Pedal Dorman

P311-19F4C41    699-107  New

22742315 , APS311 , PPS1211

Qty:
$69.32
Dorman Accelerator Pedal
  • w/Sensor Improved Design-Dash Mat Cutout May Be Required For Installation
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Length (In): 14 In.
    • Mounting Method: Screws
    • Thickness (in): 2 In.
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Buick Allure
Dorman
2007 Buick Rainier Accelerator Pedal Dorman

P311-1F93210    699-108  New

15145758 , 15187573 , APS137

Qty:
$73.28
  • wo/Adjustable Pedals w/Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Length (In): 14.5 In.
    • Mounting Method: Bolt-on
    • Thickness (in): 1.2 In.
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Buick Rainier
ACDelco
2016 Buick Enclave Accelerator Pedal ACDelco

P311-5C6C347    W0133-2549558  New

Qty:
$128.19
ACDelco Accelerator Pedal
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2016 - Buick Enclave

Latest Buick Repair and Accelerator Pedal Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2004 Buick Rainer, new battery, rpm dying out

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Ron H. on 2004 Buick Rainer, new battery, rpm dying out

Good morning... Last week my battery died. What led up to the battery dying was that I noticed for about a week the time setting on my clock was always at 12 O'clock everytime I started the vehicle. So that was my first clue.

So then my battery died last week the day of our snow storm. So I went to my local auto parts store, bought the battery. Got the vehicle running. Next day we had damp weather, so then starting out was not a problem.

The car starts fine, but as I drive for about 10-15 minutes, my RPM guage starts to act up, the vehicle wants to die out. It has done this the past 4 days I drove. 3 times in city traffic and once on the highway.

Looking forward to an answer. My vehicle is a 2004 Buick Rainer CXL V6 4.2L mileage 54162

Thank you

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Any trouble codes being stored in the PCM? One thing that you could try is cleaning the throttle body bore and throttle plate. PCM controls the idle speed, cruise control, and your inputs from the accelerator pedal through an electrical motor that opens and closes the throttle. The computer learns how to control the throttle and if the battery is disconnected, the PCM forgets. If the throttle is gummed up during the PCM relearn stage, this could cause the engine to stall or idle low.

Remove the air ducting and clean the throttle bore and plate and see if that resolves your issue.

Response From Ron H.

HOW is the PCM serviced? I noticed this evening that my car is really having a hard time staying running even in the PARK mode. My RPM dial keeps dipping to zero. Im fighting to keep engine running. Could my altenator be part of this problem?

Response From Discretesignals

There is no servicing the PCM. If your not familiar with working on vehicles or if you don't understand what was typed above, you should take it to a shop.

Response From Ron H.

Okay, I had my car tested at Autozone, they did a diagnostic test, the message came up - cylinder 1 misfire... So what does this mean? And how much time and money will it take to fix this problem. BTW... for some reason i'm also smelling like sewer gas odor coming from the engine.

Response From Discretesignals

A misfire means that a cylinder isn't producing any power. The computer in your vehicle has the ability to identify which cylinder(s) are misfiring as the engine is running.

A misfire can be caused from numerous reasons, but diagnosis usually starts with verifying that the cylinder is indeed misfiring. Then the reason why it is missing has to be determined. Several things need to happen for complete combustion to occur in the cylinder. They are:

*Spark
*Compression
*Air
*Fuel
*Air and fuel in the proper ratio for different engine loads and rpms.

If any of those are missing, the cylinder doesn't fire.

The rotten egg smell is from the sulfur in gasoline. Incomplete combustion can cause some of the sulfur to get trapped in catalyst. This doesn't mean your catalyst is bad.

'86 Buick Century, torque converter not locking up

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From hrc200x on '86 Buick Century, torque converter not locking up

Car is a '86 Buick Century, 4 cyclinder engine, 3 speed tranny (th125?). From what I can tell driving it the torque converter isn't locking up. Would like to fix problem to increase fuel milage. Blue plugin on front of tranny is plugged in. Trans fluid is nice and red. Thats basically all I've checked so far. Car had been sitting probably 6-8 years and started once a year just to circulate fluids.

Things I should check:

Is there a way to test a brake switch? I think its located by the brake peddle?
Adjust kickdown cable? how?
Any fuses or relays to check?
Do temp sending units play a part in lockup?

I drove a '85 Century up until a few weeks ago when it died. Had this car as a back up so am retiring the '85 and going to use this one. The '85's TC wouldn't lock until about 3 miles after leaving home and that was after warming up a bit in the yard. This would make me think to check temp senders on the '86. Also on the '85 cruising along 55mph slowly put on the brakes the TC would unlock. Maybe on the '86 the brake switch is mis adjusted or bad. Does this same switch unlock TC and put on brake lights?

Need some ideas while the weather is still warm here in Minnesota.

Thanks.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Use a test light for brake light switch.

The TC lock up is more likely load dependant than temp. Load is greater when cold and fluid is thicker. Changing trans fluid would likely help. THAT'S A LONG TIME TO LET A CAR SIT so expect some troubles,

T

Response From hrc200x

Does anyone have a manual for this particular car? I looked under the dash at the brake switch. It appears there is two, one mounted higher than the other. I took out the lower one. It has 5 electrical prongs total. One group of 3 that is about 1/2 way down the switch off the side, and the last group of two prongs that are off the end of the switch. The 3 prongs on the side all ohm fine, the two on the end don't ohm at all. I took the black plastic cover off the switch and it appears that the 2 prongs on the end should ohm when the switched is pressed in. Tried bending the innards of the switch to make somthing work and it wouldn't go. Headed to NAPA in a few seconds to make sure the right switch gets ordered.

Would be nice to find someone with a manual so I know if these two prongs that don't ohm are even for torque converter lockup?

The brake lights did work before I started this project.

It is different than the '85, I pulled the 85 switch out to hoping to just swap, but different ammount of plug-ins.

Response From way2old

Click here and see if this site is of any help. May not help, but it is free and has a lot of information. Good luck.

Response From hrc200x

Thanks, That site helps a bit, the wiring diagram was nice, but kinda vague. It showed only two wires going to the brake switch, and I think I have 5. But the two it did show went to the tranny, so I might be in luck.

Whats the correct way to adjust the kick down cable?

I pushed in the button, moved the cable down, let go of button, gave it full throttle and nothing adjusted. Pushed the button, moved the cable up, let go of button, full throttle, and nothing happens. Is the whole button mechanism supposed to move when you slide, or just the cable?

Response From hrc200x

Just took it for a test drive after new brake switch and I don't think it helped. Car is really quiet (unlike my old one) so hearing shifting/lockup is hard, but I"m pretty sure its not locking up.

Tried adjusting kickdown cable, brought cable all the way up, held button in a bit, moved throttle to full and it seemed to adjust its self, just needed a hand by me pushing in the button a bit. Still don't think that worked either as going along 50 or 55 mph kick down throttle and it stays in drive.

Response From hrc200x Top Rated Answer

There is no check engine light on, but I figured for the fun of it I'd get the codes and see if there are any, to my surprise there was a code 21. Is code 21 - Accelerator Pedal Position 1 Circuit High??? Where do I start looking to troubleshoot code 21?

I also adjusted the kickdown a little tighter than the spot it sprang to on its own and now 45/50 kicking down will drop it to 2nd gear.


Update: cleared the code and drove car a bit, code didn't come back, so must have been an old one. I'm kinda leaning towards the TCC solenoid being bad, but just wondering if there is a way to test the two wires going into the front of the tranny to make sure I'm getting power to lock TCC? Should it have power all the time, or just when around 45mph when TCC should lock?

Response From hrc200x

Since my last post I've replaced coolent temp senders, they were used ones from a car that lockup did work on. Put in a brand new TCC solenoid, and it still didn't help, while out today I pulled over and tried pushing really hard on the plug in on front of tranny, till thumb hurt. Drove awhile and 50 mph to my surprise TCC locked up. But ended up kicking out in less than a mile. Pulled over, pushed on plugin, lock up worked, but kicked out. Did this whole routine a couple more times. Last time it kicked out I turned around and headed home with out pushing on plugin and lockup worked. Either it was coinsidence or the problem is in order to get lock up the car needs to come to an almost complete stop.

Seems I just got as close as I've ever been to solving the problem. Hopfully soon.

Response From Double J

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2002/bf90222.htm

read the above link to see if it helps...

Response From hrc200x

Thanks that helps a little.

"If the lockup fails to engage, there will be some slippage and fuel economy will drop. Causes here include a bad lockup solenoid, incorrect sensor input information to the transmission controller or PCM (typically a speed sensor) and hydraulic control problems."

Where is the lockup solenoid located and how to test it?
This model might be to old to have a speed sensor?
Don't know what hyd control problems are.

I think the 3 or 4 things i mentioned in the first post might be easier to try to troubleshoot first, just am not sure they could be part of the problem or not. Thats what I'd like answers on. Anyone know of any more good auto help web sites?

How do I change the in-cabin A/C filters?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Al_Barrs on How do I change the in-cabin A/C filters?

On my 1997 Buick Park Avenue the A/C air blows fine out of the dash (top) vents, but not out of the floor vents or the mid level in-dash vents. I don't believe the in-cabin A/C filters have been changed since the car was new and don't know exactly if that is the problem, but am willing to install new filters to see if that is perhaps the problem.

I need to know how exactly with diagrams if possible, do I change the in-cabin air conditioner filters.

The Owner's Manual says they are located next to the accelerator pedal to the right, but there are several panels there with some having electrical or thermo sensors attached with wires. I need to know which panels I have to remove to get to the filters and how I get to them after the right panel(s) is/are removed.

Thanks!
Al albarrs@wfeca.net

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

I don’t have any specifics as to how to replace this particular filter and it never hurts too replace these filters but all incoming air goes through it. So if you have adequate air flow through certain vents then it’s a distribution problem not filter. As to what I’m also not sure; sorry I wasn’t of more help.
Dan.